Peliatan, Bali, Indonesia
May, 1999
I stayed here with a family while studying gamelan and dance and, well, life...as this was my first long-term trip overseas. The experiences I have from being here will stay with me forever. The town itself is more of an arts village next to the tourist hub of Ubud. If you are an adventurous walker (or just get lost and are too prideful to ask someone for directions) you might end up here. There is a good gamelan group that performs at the temple in Peliatan. They even have their own CD out. I'd recommend you check them out. This is also a good place if you want to buy some costumes and related gear for Balinese dancing.
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Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
May, 1999
In the rivalry between Ubud and Kuta...as in, where is the best tourist place in Bali...I would choose Ubud. It is quiet compared to Kuta, but has an active arts and music and dance scene...traditional arts, that is. Don't get me wrong, there are some bars and pubs and you can definitely have party-fun here too. But it is more geared to the cultured traveler. Spas are abundant now, but you can still catch a traditional performance any evening of the week. Dance ticket sellers (very) actively advertise their show near the central market (definitely a not-to-miss site) and up and down the shop-lined streets. The Monkey Forest here is the best in Bali, but as always, the monkeys can be aggressive. Word to the wise--don't feed them. There are a few temples inside the forest and a great double dragon bridge over a picturesque crevice if you are brave enough to venture further into the forest.
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Amlapura, Bali, Indonesia
May, 1999
Out in East Bali, this is the biggest town here. It is fairly typical of a Balinese town (by this, I am not referring to Kuta or Ubud). Not a stereotypical Indonesian small city...nor is it a stereotypical Balinese tourist town. Because of its past (it used to be called Karangasem but changed its name after the devastating eruption of Mt. Agung nearby to avoid future bad luck), there are some interesting sites to see here if you're into Hindu architecture or Balinese history. The 19th-century Puri Agung (one of the royal palaces) has some visually pleasing parts to it. And the Taman Ujung water Palace just out of town is alright if you are looking for something to do in the area. Check it out for some variation if you're in the area.
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Tenganan, Bali, Indonesia
May, 1999
This small village in East Bali is renowned for its unique culture. Yes, unique even for Bali! This village is considered to be part of Bali Aga, the original culture and beliefs of Bali before the Majapahit Javanese Hindus converted the island and merged its own cultural beliefs and practices into the Bali Aga culture. The average tourist may not recognize this (or even care?), but Tenganan is designed as Balinese towns were laid out thousands of years ago, walled in and its architectural symmetry is determined according to religious and cultural beliefs. In theory, the Bali Aga culture has remained strong over the centuries by being anti-social with the Hindu Balinese. However, this did not stop me and other tourists from walking straight into town. Tourists come here for the (technically impressive, yet overhyped) double ikat batik weaving. The way they do it (and all without electricity) is very tricky and takes a really long time to do it. And that's why they charge hundreds (and even thousands) of dollars to tourists who want to buy one. At the time I visited, though, they were in the process of buying an electric generator to power a credit card swipe machine, which (without the Internet or phone connections) could be brought into the bank in town once a week and deposited into the weaver's bank account. I would not be surprised to find this town lined with tourist shops and accepting credit cards left and right these days! Oh ya...I almost got killed by a water buffalo that chased me through the town center. The local people weren't going to do anything to stop it, of course, because it was considered holy. Fortunately, they cannot climb, and I surprised myself to see how quickly I could move!
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Candi Dasa, Bali, Indonesia
May, 1999
This cozy little town is usually touted in travel literature as a tourist destination. However, I found very little around town that would entice very many people to leave the more touristy towns like Kuta and Ubud. There are a number of tourist hotels and resorts here, but the town lacks a beach, despite being right on the coast. This was an unfortunate lesson learned to late in developmental controls and effects on the environment. Most hotels were built with the corals off the coast of the town. And when they were gone, so went the beach. That is not to say, though, that Candi Dasa has nothing to offer tourists. In fact, it is a great place to base yourself when making travels around East Bali, an off-the-beaten-path area of an island stampeded by tourists 365 days a year. The most memorable time I had in Candi Dasa was when I stayed at a Hindu ashram with a feisty old woman who ran the place (who has since passed away). The ashram was open to anyone of any religion, despite its Hindu origins. Everyone was assigned a chore to earn their keep. Some had to collect cow feces and dry it out to make fuel for the fired oven. I was lucky to only have to play the bamboo flute after dinner when the residents would share stories of their homeland or village and teach new songs to the others. It was a great experience and one that I will remember for a long time to come.
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Amed, Bali, Indonesia
May, 1999
I must say that if it weren't for the group of friends I was travelling with, I never would have taken the time to come out to Amed. My friends kept telling me that from the pictures they had seen, Amed appeared to be a beautiful resort area. With such a similar name and this new concept in mind, I began envisioning Amed to be Bali's own Club Med. Well, Club Med it definitely was not! But that's not to say that it did not have charm. It is very isolated on the northeast coast of Bali. Winding through hilly roads in rural areas of the island that not too many tourists ever get to see, our van was involved in two minor car accidents on the way there. The driver didn’t stop either time though. We were a mess by the time we arrived, but it was well worth the excursion. The town itself is small and, as far as tourism is concerned, largely caters to the snorkelers and divers. That was, after all, the reason why we came here. So with mask on face and flippers on feet, I waddled to the water across the clean sands and dove in. The reefs off the coast were the perfect centerpiece for the experience, attracting so many types of fish I had never seen before. I didn't get to any of the ship wrecks in the area and never got to see any sharks (or is that a good thing?), but I left Amed with nothing but good memories.
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Jimbaran, Bali, Indonesia
June, 1999
The beach here is nice and clean, but I've only been here late at night. But the beach is still nice here late at night. At Jimbarran Beach you can sit at a table right on the beach (just meters away from the water) and be served a fresh fish dinner...of a fish that you personally choose from the restaurant's tanks (Can you look Nemo in the eyes when you sentence him to death on a grill?). The experience can be romantic as live beach bands (including a sandy double bass!) come around and serenade you. It is pricy, however...even as far as Bali-tourist-rip-off prices are concerned. But I've done this a number of times now as the overall experience is worth it.
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Kuta, Bali, Indonesia
June, 1999
This place can be really full on, that's for sure. The drunken party stupor worn by many here at night gives way to vibrant shopping, surfing, and beaching in the day though. There are so many restaurants, shops, and activities here that it is hard to narrow down the scope. Again, this is one of those "must experience before I die" locations. Kuta's beach is decent, but it is too full of people and vendors to be enjoyable. To me, it's the kind of place that you can step onto while walking back to your hotel after shopping. My favorite thing to do is actually to just walk it early in the morning...just after sunset. No vendors and no people...just locals going about their morning activities.
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Putrajaya, WP, Malaysia
June, 1999
My first trip to Malaysia was a transit at KL International Airport on my way to Indonesia. However, on the same return flight, the airlines had organized a mandatory overnight stopover in the country. I had no problems with breaking up a long trans-Pacific flight and getting some hotel luxuries after a month-long stay in tourist-luxury-free rural Bali. After arriving at the airport, my friends and I were shuttled through immigration and outside to a bus that would take us to the hotel. This being Kuala Lumpur's airport, I expected that we would be taken to Kuala Lumpur. So when we got to the beautiful golf resort, we immediately began searching the sky for the recently-erected Petronas Towers, the tallest buildings in the world at the time. Didn't see them...but it didn't stop us from looking. Wandering all around the resort, we couldn't find the correct direction to look for them. Surely you could see the tallest buildings from anywhere in the city, right? Well, yes. But I didn't find out until years later that I was not even in Kuala Lumpur at the time, but 40 minutes drive away in the newly under-construction administrative capital. As it turns out, that resort I stayed at isn't even there anymore, having made way for apartments and shops for the now flourishing, if not quiet, city. I can say, however, that I was in Putrajaya when it was literally nothing but wetlands and constructions sites.
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Tokyo, Japan
June, 1999
I have no recollection of transiting in Japan on my first international flight from the US to Bali, but I definitely remember it on the return flight. After leaving Malaysia for the 2nd leg of a 4-leg trip home, I fell asleep. It's odd actually, as I rarely am able to sleep while moving. But I must have been tired since I had already kicked my shoes off to get more comfortable. That was a mistake. As we began our descent into Narita airport, I woke up and started to get ready to switch planes. I packed my carry-on bag with books, logic puzzles, and my water bottle (ah, those were the days...your own liquids carried on a flight). But when I went to look for my shoes, I could only find one! I searched all around but could not find it. Who would steal one shoe? Then I noticed that the air vent underneath the seat in front of me was missing its cover. My shoe must have fallen down there. I stuck my hand down the hole, but couldn't come up with anything. It was quite deep. About five minutes after everyone else had already left the plane, the flight attendant told me I needed to leave as well. I told her my predicament and asked for her help. She asked me to wait. She came back with another flight attendant and asked me to tell my story again. I did. They laughed and asked me to wait again. They brought back with them yet another flight attendant. I explained my story again, but they just giggled and walked away. Realizing I wasn't going to get my shoe back, I decided to disembark and wait for my connecting flight...with one shoe on. I got started at for sure...all the way back to Atlanta, my final destination, where I was able to dig through my suitcase and pull out a pair of flip-flops! Ah...memoirs of a one-shoed guy in Japan.
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Jakarta, DKI, Indonesia
June, 2000
Jakarta is a city like no other. In fact, it's not really even a city anymore, but more of a monster. Indonesia's capital city, the largest in Southeast Asia, has grown so big that it extends outside of the Capital Territory and into two surrounding provinces. Its cultural sprawl, however, extends from one corner to the other of the country. When you leave the airport, you instantly know you are in Jakarta as the mixed scents of clove cigarettes and gasoline assault your senses. The city has so many different sections to it that it is hard to classify a single area as the center, and getting around can be a time-consuming ordeal with all the traffic on the road. The bus lanes help mass transit move a bit faster, but it comes at the expense of an extra lane for car traffic. Taxis, if not hiring your own personal driver, are the best way to get around as a tourist. The backpacker tourist area, centered around Jalan Jaksa, is central enough to malls, food stalls, embassies, airport bus drop-off and pick-up points, and the main train station that you could spend your entire time here if you don't know what to do. Taman Mini, the zoo, Ancol theme park, Monas...they are all popular tourist attractions in Jakarta--and I'd recommend each one to a first- or second-time visitor--but sometimes just watching the people go about business in this intensely busy city is all the excitement you could ask for! If not, then the clubbing, bar, and spa scenes are also very active and attract regional fun-seekers from Malaysia and Singapore on the weekends.
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Yogyakarta, DIY, Indonesia
June, 2000
Among Javanese Jogja is stereotyped (and perhaps rightly so) as the most cultured and refined city in the country. The Sultan, Hamengkubuwono (the Tenth), is widely respected around the island and in political circles, and aside from being the administrator of this historical district, he is the protector of high Javanese culture. The way of speaking here (in Javanese, of course) is much more formal than the rest of Java. This high culture concept, thus, seems like an odd pairing for the numerous backpacker tourists that flock to the region each year. But Jogja has wide appeal for all types of tourists as it boasts an impressive colonial and pre-colonial history, two of the largest ancient monuments in the world (the Hindu Prambanan and the Buddhist Borobudur), and an eclectic, young population, drawing from its moniker as the "City of Students." The shopping around the lanes in the Sosrowijayan and Prawirotaman areas can be a fun experience and is an easy spot to grab souvenirs. Jogja also has several palaces to explore, a number of art shops near the Kraton, and a bustling silver industry. Food here can be incredibly cheap if you don't mind eating alongside the road in a partially-tented "warung" while sharing a wooden bench with others or sitting on a mat on the ground. It does make for an interesting experience to take home with you to try it once. Oh, and while you are here, you should try one of my favorite foods: nasi gudeg. This rice dish is topped with sweetened jackfruit cooked in coconut milk. Try not to think about it too much...just try it!
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Bandungan, Central Java, Indonesia
June, 2000
Bandungan is a small village, or as they say a market town, that served as a hill resort for those in nearby Semarang. About 1000m up in the Ungaran Mountains, the town offers some gorgeous views of Central Java's mountainous landscape, including Merapi and Merbabu Mountains. The outdoor market here is actually very busy, despite the lack of people in the village. I guess it does actually draw a crowd! There are some touristy knickknacks, but the best features of this market are the sweets, fruits, and vegetables...ok, well, at least the sweets. The area has an old train museum for the line that used to come through the area. And there is also a tempeh museum. Now, tempeh is very delicious, but I can guarantee you that you will have a hard time trying to stomach tempeh after watching it being made. Maybe give this one a miss if you enjoy eating it. The biggest attraction around Bandungan is the Gedung Songo Hindu temples, dating back to 8th century. It is a long walk to go around and see the temples and other ruins, so you could do what I did and get a horse. It is scary, actually, as the paths the horses are expected to walk on are actually narrow ledges alongside the mountain. But bring your camera if you do brave the mountainside as the views are stunning.
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Klaten, Central Java, Indonesia
June, 2000
Just across the Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta (DIY) border, Klaten is essentially a bedroom community for Yogyakarta (Jogja) as many seem to make their living there instead. I did see some wealthy residential areas...so apparently business is good. This Central Javanese city does not get much attention, being sandwiched between Jogja and Surakarta (Solo), but it is technically home to the famed Prambanan Hindu temples from the ninth century. The area was damaged badly during a 2006 earthquake just off the coast but is rebuilding. And certainly, life has moved on.
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Parangtritis, DIY, Indonesia
June, 2000
What does Paris have to do with Parangtritis? Nothing actually. But if you happen to be in Jogja and take a close look at the southbound buses, you will see that they go to Paris...or Par'is...a shortened form for Parangtritis. Even though it is not Paris, Parangtritis is quite popular with locals and domestic tourists. Even the Muslim Javanese sultans send offerings here for the region's Hindu-era past significance. The beach itself is dirty and not particularly pretty, due to the large number of visitors. For locals, it is considered to be a romantic place, though, and couples abound here (albeit they don't necessarily come here or leave from here together). You can even take a horse-drawn carriage ride along the beach (and watch out for horse droppings if you do decide to walk the shores). There are some picturesque cliffs along the waterfront and some caves which are also steeped in legend and continue to draw the mystic crowds from around Java.
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Tuban, Bali, Indonesia
July, 2000
The first time I went here, it was hidden in the shadows of neighboring Kuta. Nobody talked about Tuban and still nobody does...but what some people refer to as Kuta (and having a great time there), is actually Tuban. These days, it is easily on par with Kuta. Large shopping malls and plazas--the newest in Bali, for that matter--, bars, pubs, and clubs, water parks, and attractions. It has it all. It only takes about 5 minutes to walk to Kuta's town center and there is beach access from the back of the large plaza...sometimes the water comes right up to the bottom steps leading down to the beach! There are some scammers that hang around the front of the plaza, and some of the shop owners are a bit pushy, but otherwise Tuban is a nice place to base yourself for your south Bali travels.
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Kaliurang, Central Java, Indonesia
July, 2000
This mountain town boasts a great view of Central Java's Gunung Merapi and its lava rivers...when they are running, that is. It also has festivals and non-tourist cultural performances. I've seen a variation of kuda lumping twice here. There are also nice recreational areas, making it a relaxing place to chill out (literally, as the temperature here can get a little cold at night and noticeably cooler during the day). I come here almost every time I am in the Yogyakarta area. The road to Kaliurang from Jogja also passes the Indonesian Islamic University, which has some nice architecture. One year I came here for New Year's fireworks...had a blast.
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Mataram, Lombok, Indonesia
July, 2000
Mataram is the capital of Nusa Tenggara Barat Province and is the principle city on Lombok, the island to the immediate east of Bali. Mataram's status as a provincial capital, its claim as the largest city in the province, and the historical connection of its name to a widespread empire in Indonesia's past, make it sound as if there is something significant to be seen here. Sadly, that is not true. Tourists from Bali may pass through on their way to the Gili islands, but they won't see any reason to stick around here, despite the provincial government's attempt to lure some of Bali's lucrative tourists across the channel that separates the two islands. Sure the ferry between the islands is really slow (4-6 hours) and has sunk before, but Lombok does deserve some attention. And Mataram in particular is an interesting place for tourists who enjoy the fusion of rural and urban. More recently, Indonesia has been housing African and Middle Eastern refugees on their way to Australia in Mataram. They don't have much of a livelihood, but they do get an allowance and a place to live...which is much better than getting put into an Australian detention center and being forced to pay for your stay there.
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Senggigi, Lombok, Indonesia
July, 2000
I must say that my first trip to Lombok was a bit uneventful. Sure, I had just come from Bali (and after the 5 hour ferry ride was really looking forward to some mental or visual stimulation), but I must admit that I expected more. Senggigi is billed as a tourist town, but it does not have the name recognition as Lombok's other tourist town (Kuta...yes, the exact same name as Bali's main tourist town), nor does it have the draw of the Gili islands (where I can recall scores of tourists going there and admitting to being drugged--by choice--and then robbed). Senggigi was quiet in comparison and offered a window into Lombok's Hindu past, when it was under the control of Balinese royalty. The seaside Hindu temples are a nice photo op. The restaurants around town...and even the tourist accommodations...were a bit desperate to get customers. But you can't blame them when there were virtually no other tourists in town that I noticed. The beaches here are nice, but the shopping is lacking a bit. Senggigi would be a great place to go and relax and even sunbathe without being harassed by beach-prowling vendors like in Bali.
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Lovina, Bali, Indonesia
December, 2001
Yes, Lovina in lovely, but only for the right crowd. Depending on your preferences, you may find Lovina to be a waste of space or just the right combination to meet your holiday needs. This north coast Balinese town has plenty of tourist facilities but not too many tourists usually. It takes several hours to drive from Kuta in the south to get to Lovina, but some of the scenery and winding mountain roads make it worthwhile. The beaches are small but nice and most of the resorts have immediate beach access, unlike in Kuta. Restaurants and tourist shops give town wanderers something to do, but you will also notice more clearly here that Lovina is a place where people live, not just a place dedicated to the tourist dollar. For diving fans, there are some good sites in the area, and several companies (most likely not certified) will even give you PADI diving certification before you do your dives.
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Malang, Central Java, Indonesia
December, 2001
The word "malang" means bad luck or disaster in Indonesian. I'm not sure what sort of catastrophe has beset the city in the past, but I can say that it is unfortunate that more people don't come and visit this city. Set in the middle of East Java Province, Malang makes for the best hopping point to see some of the province's attractions, especially Mount Bromo. The region has an impressive history too, though much of that may go unnoticed to the untrained eye. Malang itself was a favorite spot during Dutch colonialism, and its hill station atmosphere still comes through today. There are not a lot of things to do for tourists in the city, though. And without a beach, it is not likely to draw big crowds either. But for anyone taking a bus between Bali and Java, it is worth it to get out and stretch your legs here for a day or two.
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Bandung, West Java, Indonesia
January, 2002
A lot of tourists (domestic and international) like Bandung a lot. So far, though, I have yet to see what they see in it. The Sundanese capital has a strong cultural foundation, some good universities, and a relatively strong and diversified economy. Life is good. The downtown area has a number of pubs and bars with locals, businessmen, and tourists in it. And its proximity to Jakarta (only a few hours away) makes it easy to travel between the two cities. Bandung even has an impressive array of historical buildings. Most of my friends, however, go there for the shopping. In fact, many clothing companies and retail outlets take their entire inventory from shops or "distros" in Bandung, many of which can be found on Jalan Cihampelas (or nicknamed "Jeans Street"). One of my favorite drinks from Bandung, though, is called bandrek, which is a mix of tea, milk, ginger, and honey. It's good!
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Medan, North Sumatra, Indonesia
January, 2002
I spent several months in Medan doing my thesis research, so I really got to know the city from the backstreets first before I visited its tourist attractions. Even though I like the city, I admit it has a lot of unattractive elements to it. There is some violent crime, air pollution is horrible, and a general impression from the street level is that the city is pretty dirty. Those things aside, Medan offers its residents some of the best shopping and mix of food on the whole island. The cultural mix here, in general, is impressive and gives Medan a lot of character that is lacking in more monotonous cities (no names). Aside from the Batak groups and the usual suspects (Javanese, Sundanese, and Minangkabau), Medan hosts an ethnic Chinese population that has not been assimilated like those found on Java, and a Tamil Indian population. Shopping in Medan is good, and there are a number of malls and plazas. More recently, a luxury mall was built, and the area around the central padang (used for political speeches or playing soccer in the mud) has been turned into a neon-lighted, outdoor food court that stretches the entire length of the padang on the side closest to the main post office. I was impressed with Medan's development in recent years.
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Belawan, North Sumatra, Indonesia
January, 2002
Belawan serves as Medan's primary seaport and is a regular stop on Indonesia's Pelni ships. It also serves as the drop off for a high-speed ferry from Penang across the Strait of Malacca in Malaysia. I came to Belawan for this very purpose of getting the ferry to Penang (for a visa run) and back. I later found out in the news that I was on the same ferry as a small group of al-Qaeda operatives that the local officials were tracking from Malaysia to Indonesia. They subsequently lost them (and a few months later Bali was bombed). Aside from lack security at the port, at least at this time, the port facilities are severely lacking in any comfort. Belawan town itself has little to offer visitors aside from a small market and a few roadside food stalls. I visited a friend of mine whose family lives here. The conditions were truly squalor. His village sat on top of a cesspool where both the drinking water was drawn from and the hole-in-the-floor-of-the-house toilets emptied into. What seemed like hundreds of dogs ran around the muddy village, but it was a Christian settlement, so seeing (and hearing) the unique way they worshipped was interesting.
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Parapat, North Sumatra, Indonesia
February, 2002
Parapat is a popular recreational place with a fairly bad reputation. Interesting combo, isn't it? This town sits on the eastern side of North Sumatra's Lake Toba and acts as the primary port for catching the ferries to various points around the lake and on Samosir Island, which sits in the middle of the huge volcanic crater lake. Part of the town has developed along the Trans-Sumatra Highway to accommodate passers-by. Indeed, it is a good place to stop and break up your long journey if you are traveling between Medan and anywhere south in Sumatra. After the 4-6 hour drive from Medan, this is where you get dropped off. From here you can stop and get lunch or head straight into the older part of town along the lake. The 15 minute walk to town (you can also take a bemo) takes you by some small resorts and low density hotels with part of the lake viewed from below. When you get into town, though, any thoughts of a peaceful lakeside town vanish. The touts begin as soon as you approach the dirty market. You won't make it to the ferry port without going unnoticed. Once on board the ferry, just sit back, relax, and wait for it to depart (you pay on board). It will take you close to or directly to your hotel on Samosir, where you will look back at Parapat in the distance and be happy that you are no longer there.
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Tuk-Tuk, North Sumatra, Indonesia
February, 2002
Tuk-Tuk is the most popular tourist town on Samosir Island at Danau Toba. It is also the first place the ferries from Parapat drop you off. Resorts line the coast of the lake and restaurants abound, even though the general atmosphere of the town is quiet and peaceful. The employees of the resorts and hotels are usually very friendly and will oftentimes be your best source of local information and perhaps even travel buddy (because they are bored and have nothing better to do). Bicycle or motorcycle rentals are easily arranged and can be used for taking trips around the island to other towns nearby (like the market town of Tomok).
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Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia
March, 2002
Penang's capital city is an interesting mix of Malaysian modernity, British colonialism, and a strong Chinese influence. Numerous colonial era buildings line the narrow streets, and there are some fabulous mansions dotted around the town...though many are in decay despite heritage preservation groups trying to raise money for them. The nightlife here, however, brings in many domestic and international tourists and is second only to KL's scene. The shopping plazas in the inner city, however, are lacking and could use a makeover. But the central bus terminal beneath the mall is very practical and well-planned.
Edit (3 March 2011):
I've visited Georgetown several times since my original blog post about it so I figure an update is needed. Penang has grown quickly over the past decade. Georgetown was named a UNESCO Heritage City but has managed to keep its modernizing away from the historic areas of the city. Fingers crossed that this lasts for many more decades to come. The older part of town is still a pleasure to visit and best done on foot (or by becak if you are not too shy). Their inner city malls have since been improved and expanded and even nicer ones are found in the suburbs (Queensbay and Gurney, for example). Nightlife continues to thrive in Penang and a new club/bar/pub strip has opened up between the start of Penang Road and the E&O Hotel, making it really easy to entertain yourself at night. For food, Penang still reigns, with the hawker foods lining the streets at night and a range of other good places to dine throughout the day. I'll be back here soon.
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Berastagi, North Sumatra, Indonesia
March, 2002
Berastagi has a reputation for having good vegetables. And that about sums up the excitement level visitors to this town will experience. For locals living in Medan or tourists looking for a respite from the coastal heat, Berastagi does offer cooler weather. And with its nothing-to-do atmosphere, this is a pleasant town to just chill out and read a book. There are some good hiking opportunities in the area and a nice view of the picturesque Sibayak volcano from certain vantage points around town. I hung out on the golf course...just lounging around in the grass having a picnic. Strange, yes...but there wasn't a whole lot else to do. The market is fairly similar to other markets in the area. And if you haven't had the opportunity to see Karo Batak houses, Berastagi area is a good place to look.
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Padangsidempuan, North Sumatra, Indonesia
March, 2002
This town is at the southwestern end of the province before entering West Sumatra, making it one long and painful bus ride to get down here from Medan. I would like to say that it is worth it, but it was not. Padangsidempuan is one of the biggest cities in the province (albeit, no comparison to Medan), but it really didn't have a "populated" feel to it when I got there. In fact, tragedy had recently struck the city as its main market had burnt down to the ground. As this was the main place of commerce in the city, a lot of people lost a lot. And the city lost its livelihood. A ramshackle alternative market was set up nearby, but there was little of interest there. Being so remote, the school kids followed me around a little bit. It was cute...for a while.
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Sibolga, North Sumatra, Indonesia
March, 2002
OK, so for a while, I had heard that Sibolga was North Sumatra's west coast resort town--a place for Medanites, Malaysians, Singaporeans, and more wealthy Indonesians to enjoy in all its remoteness. Indeed, it takes a long time to get out here by bus or mini-van from Medan. I am not sure if there is a commercial airport either--just a small charter air strip. Sibolga is quaint if you look at it from a descriptive point of view. If I say it like this--small town stretched along the beach between the Indian Ocean and the Bukit Barisan Mountains--it sounds appealing. In fact, there was much talk about the city installing a monorail along the side of the mountain above the city so tourists could enjoy the view of the ocean and sunset over the town. That never happened...and probably for the good of the city's budget. It has a heavy naval presence and its busy trade seaport and passenger ferries to Nias give it a seedy atmosphere. Violent crimes are not uncommon and I felt uneasy walking around town. Apparently, there are not too many Caucasian tourists that pass through here. It is sad to note that Sibolga was hit hard by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. It wouldn't surprise me if the whole city was covered with water due to the whole town's proximity to the water. Hopefully, however, it will bring with it opportunities for further improvements.
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Tanjung Balai, North Sumatra, Indonesia
April, 2002
Down the east coast of North Sumatra Province, just over half way between Medan and the border of Riau Province, lies the small city of Tanjung Balai. I took the train to get down here, which is a bit of an oddity as trains in Sumatra are about as normal as orangutans in Europe. The train moved very slowly (and in fact on my way back to Medan, the train in front of mine derailed into a rice field and we had to walk about 2km in the rice fields to get the connecting train past the broken tracks and upside down train carriages). I was visiting a friend of mine in Tanjung Balai who was very proud of his hometown. The commercial district was fairly typical to other towns, if not a bit more developed. And they had almost developed the waterfront area (despite heavy industry and lots of fishing and trawling) into a recreational area for locals. I was positive that I was the only Westerner in Tanjung Balai at the time and had been the only one for years. Still, it was a surprising part of Sumatra that I didn't expect to see.
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Kuala Lumpur, WP, Malaysia
July, 2003
Kuala Lumpur is not the biggest city in Southeast Asia. Nor is it the cleanest or richest or most culturally diverse. However, from my experience, I would have to say that it is the most livable and the most fun. The first time I visited the city, I was naturally impressed by the Petronas Towers and the high speed train into the city from the airport. But it didn't take long to be impressed by the smaller things the city had to offer. I quickly found that the 24 hour culture at the outdoor food courts was where the city really came to life. Everyone, rich and poor of all races and ages, could meet up here at night and just hang out with their friends. I took a strong liking to that...plus the fact that the teh tarik and roti canai, a common snack (or meal) would cost less than US$1. But the longer I stayed, the more I actually liked the city. Its trains and public transport system is flawed and certainly not integrated (despite claims to the contrary), but traffic is even worse than dealing with public transport problems. Yet, it doesn't keep me from going out and enjoying what the city has to offer. KL has a number of great shopping areas and several places to go for nighttime entertainment. The colonial district is picturesque, as are the traditional regions of the city associated with the main ethnic groups of the country. KL Tower offers the best view of the city from above, while the area around Masjid Jamek puts the city's namesake into perspective. Overall, KL is a city that is easily likable from the beginning, and gets better the longer you stay here.
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Malacca Town, Malacca, Malaysia
July, 2003
Malacca is a great example of a city whose past far outshines its present state. Once positioned at the center of the Asian maritime trade network, the city drew admirers from all over the world. Some came for trade, while others came to conquer. Today, very few people come here at all, despite the Malaysian government's attempts to boost the region as a tourist destination. It's too bad that Malacca is passed up as it does have enough to offer the curious tourist. At less than a 2 hour drive from Kuala Lumpur, Malacca is easily accessible and could even be made as a day trip (as I've done several times). The evidence of the Portuguese, Dutch, and British occupation is abundant, with Malacca's famous "pink church" leading the way. From restored galleys to fort in ruins, the history of Malacca is impressive. At night, a sound and light show recalls the city's turbulent past. And no visit to Malacca would be complete without wandering around Jonkers Street and its environs to see the impressive Chinese architecture and shops.
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Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia
August, 2003
I can't tell. It runs together with KL across the official border between Selangor and the WP, but Petaling Jaya, or PJ, is certainly big enough to be its own city...even if it is considered run off from KL. There are the Sunway amusement parks, Las Vegas Strip rip offs (also Sunway owned), and even a monorail (although public transport in general sucks here). A lot of artists coming through will do concerts out here or even just hang out in some of the clubs and bars in the area. There are some innovative ones out that way. But for me, the traffic sucks too much to actually feel motivated to go all the way out there from KL.
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Putrajaya, WP, Malaysia
August, 2003
The first time I came here, I didn't even realize where I was. The city was under construction: a planned city. Putrajaya is still being built, but the basic foundations of the city were securely in place by my second visit. The actual infrastructural planning is not as impressive as other planned cities I've been to, like Canberra, but Putrajaya is easily a much prettier city than most (if not all other) cities in Malaysia. The main mosque (and it's pink) is very impressive sitting alongside a large lake in the center of the city. Next to that is the government's administrative building. And a very unique bridge spans this lake. I doubt the design of the bridge is for anything other than decoration though, but it is still picturesque. Residences in the city must follow strict codes of external appearance so that the city does not turn into...well, just any other city in Malaysia. The convention center with its wings sit atop a hill that passing motorists can clearly see. And a number of foreign companies have set up offices or distribution centers in the city's outskirts. Each time I go back to Putrajaya, it has grown a little bit more.
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Cheras, WP, Malaysia
August, 2003
This is an old and not well-maintained area of KL...though quite large and commerically developed. It wouldn't be considered trendy though. Technically, it is also its own city that sprawls on both sides of the Selangor and WP border. But for all practical purposes, it is just KL sprawl. It has its fair share of crime and seedy activity at night. There are a few older malls in the various sections of Cheras. I have lived here as well, so I get to see a lot of the undesirable elements as well. Each year, it gets a bit bigger...even though the roads do not. Even when new highways are cut through the city, it seems to just make congestion worse.
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Damansara, Selangor, Malaysia
April, 2005
Damansara is Kuala Lumpur sprawl with similarly high prices. It is much newer and looks much nicer (in general) though. There are plenty of popular hang out spots around the area...for people wanting to be seen by those looking. KL's Ikea is also based out here (Funny, because in the US, Australia, or Europe, Ikea is seen as being cheap and functional, whereas in Asia, Ikea is looked to as being trendy and fashionable--and it is not cheap for local standards). Damansara has many subdivisions, and it keeps growing. Prices for the newer areas have been going up, but the older parts of town have seen some good deals on housing. Still, there is no public transport (aside from buses) so getting down here involves a train ride to the last station followed by a taxi ride that costs more than your train ticket. Nevertheless, there are some nice malls here, offering some stores that aren't found in KL.
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Setapak, WP, Malaysia
April, 2005
I actually looked into renting an apartment out in Setapak. There are some really good prices on accommodation in this town, but with no way to get there or around without a car, and after taking a taxi out here and finding a very uneventful place, I strongly opted against it. This is a growing area and still looks a little 'kampong' for my tastes. But it has come a long way from its past as a tin mining town. And the access point to get from here to KL city center is one of the worst bottle neck traffic areas in the city. Technically, Malaysia's Zoo Negara is located here. The concept of the zoo is nice (in the jungle with a stream running through the center of it), but it is poorly maintained.
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Kampong Datuk Keramat, WP, Malaysia
May, 2005
Well...Datuk Keramat reminds me a bit of Indonesia in some ways. Just on the outskirts of the KL downtown area, this 'village' is dominated by Malays, many living in fairly poor conditions. The housing is unique, in a sense, because the ways these houses have expanded (as family size expanded) on such small plots of land is creative. I stayed on a lane that was filled with classic style bungalow houses (which are fast disappearing). I would walk to KLCC from here (and yes, I'm crazy and it's hot). The market at Keramat is quite active, but there isn't anything here, per se, for tourists. There are some good, cheap food stalls in the area though.
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Subang Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia
May, 2005
One day I went out to Petaling Jaya for some shopping. But coming back from there has always been a challenge on public transportation (and definitely no direct route). On various attempts, I've hopped into a bus once and a taxi the second time...neither one seemed to know KL's city train network when we asked where to hook up with it...so we got dropped at Subang's KTM rail line...the slowest way to get back into the city. Subang itself is ok...lot of commercial development and an airport that fluctuates up and down with secondary airline companies (Firefly, Berjaya, etc.). But Subang is not a good place to explore without your own car.
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Bangkok, Thailand
May, 2005
I've been here a few times now, but I wouldn't mind skipping out. I find Bangkok to be very repetitive. It's big, dirty, and over-populated like other equivalent cities, but there is a lot of entertainment venues to keep you distracted. There's also, of course, a very big part of its tourist market that is set aside for the sex trade. Guys, girls, something in between--there is something for everyone here. The touts from the vendors setting up along Silom road at the night market are annoying, but I usually buy some little tourist knickknack for friends back home. There are some big malls for quieter and cooler-temperature shopping, but I wouldn't rate them among the best malls I've been to. It's odd though--when I am in Bangkok, I don't like it. But after I leave, I get the feeling that I want to come back again!
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Ayutthaya, Thailand
May, 2005
Ayutthaya does not hold any real modern significance as far as I can tell (as a tourist). Aside from a regular flow of buses coming through, the town doesn't seem to offer much. But its history is significant, having been the ancient capital of the Siam Kingdom. There are a number of temples (wat) and shrines, and the city is literally surrounded on all four sides by rivers. The name of the city means unconquerable...except that eventually the Burmese did just that. Yet, Ayutthaya was the capital of Siam at the peak of its reach and in the remnants of the ancient city today, you can see that. Bus makes for an easy way to get here and back from Bangkok, but if you want something different, take the train up here, then at the bottom of the station, catch the ferry across the river.
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Bukit Frasier, Malaysia
July, 2005
Frasier Hill is a colonial-era British hill station that is about an hour and a half (or 2?) north of Kuala Lumpur. It offers KLites a nice break from the heat of the valley but not too much else. Then again, this can be attractive too. The road to get there has a section that winds around the mountains and is too narrow for cars moving in both directions. So cars often have to wait for the directional change several times throughout the day. The town is really cute if not overpriced and aside from a few expansive golf courses, the area is well forested. I went with a friend of mine and his family to their company bungalow (nice views). I even got to try homemade grapefruit jam. 'Yum' and 'yuck' at the same time! Glad I tried it though. There's a nice lake where you can rent paddle boats and a well-positioned vista nearby for splendid views. But unless you plan to come here to relax and wind down, you might be disappointed.
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Tanjungan, Bali, Indonesia
June, 2005
The temple of Tanah Lot offers a unique glimpse at what happens when a sea stack is formed not too far off the coast...and what it would look like if a Balinese temple happened to be on top of the land that survived the surrounding collapse! The grounds here are usually very crowded around sunset time, and walking out to the base of the temple no doubt destroys the delicate corals underneath your feet at low tide. At high tide...good luck not getting bit by a sea snake! The sunsets are nice here though. I'd recommend finding a secluded spot up on the cliffs away from the temple to enjoy it and admire from above.
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Surabaya, East Java, Indonesia
August, 2005
The city of Surabaya is one that is commonly skipped over by tourists. After all, Jakarta is bigger, Bali is more iconic, and Jogja is more historic. But Indonesia's second largest city does have some hidden elements of interest for tourists. Dutch colonial architecture is still abundant in the older part of the city. In the center of town, there is a submarine that has been turned into a museum...a very claustrophobic experience for anyone willing to try going inside. The surrounding area has been turned into a hang-out plaza, where couples or groups of friends hang out and listen to the nightly music performances (usually Dangdut music). Across the road is a popular eating area, where guests sit on the floor to eat. Surabaya has a number of shopping malls and monuments recalling the country's independence struggle in the 1940s.
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Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia
August, 2005
Manado is at the northern tip of Sulawesi, a long drive from Makassar at the southern tip, but a worthy destination. The city itself resembles a fusion of rural, eastern Indonesia, mixed with nuances from the Philippines and even the Caribbean. To me, at least, that's how it felt. It reminded me more of a town in the Philippines than in Indonesia. The large number of Christians here must have been the swaying factor. Most houses here have tin roofs and it comes across as being impoverished, yet quite happy and active. The malls and newer parts to the town center are not all that impressive, and if you are not coming here for the beautiful diving and beaches, you might be a little bored.
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Gorontalo Town, Gorontalo, Indonesia
August, 2005
This place is definitely one of those sleepy, backwoods towns that you really have to plan to go to if you ever want to see it. I was looking for a stopover between point A and point B, that's all it was, but I was glad to have seen it. The beaches in the area are not nice compared to others in the region (but getting out of town a little bit, there are some that are not too bad), and the town itself is certainly not one to laud about. For me, the best time I had was chatting with the 1/4 Dutch homestay owner (who looked and talked exactly like one of my professors!) and driving around town in a motorized becak. There is a hot springs just out of town that can be popular with the locals on certain days. Also, climbing up to the top of Fort Otonaha will give you a great view of the town, Lake Limboto, and the region as a whole. And based on the litter all the way up, it's a popular hangout place too.
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Makassar, South Sulawesi, Indonesia
August, 2005
Makassar is another one of those cities whose history is far more impressive than its current status. Historically, the inhabitants of Makassar have been sea-faring people, and even claim that their pirates are the origins of the Boogey Man in Western mythology (based on the gruesome ways they would raid European trading vessels). Today, as the largest city in Eastern Indonesia, you might expect something of significance to draw people here. But unfortunately, Makassar is usually just a transit for tourists who are on their way to Tana Toraja inland. Makassar has a few large malls now and concerts are fairly regular. But its main claim to fame, the sea, has not been fully utilized for tourism. There is a jetty near the old Dutch fort that is a popular hang-out spot in the evenings for the locals. But otherwise, there is little of interest along the coast (or in the city) for tourists. I tried the city's specialty food dish, coto Makassar. It is a noodle soup that has beef and cow brains and intestines in it...which is all fair game to try at least...except that I'm vegetarian. Big mistake. More recently, though, Makassar makes the claim of having the world's largest indoor theme park (Trans Kalla).
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Balikpapan, East Kalimantan, Indonesia
August, 2005
Balikpapan is billed as a city with many expatriates living here. Well, I only saw one foreigner the entire time I was here. So maybe they just don't come into town very often? What I did notice is that Balikpapan, like most cities in Borneo, is much cleaner than cities in Java or Sumatra. Balikpapan marked the first time I had been to Borneo, and it is probably the worst example of what a tourist might expect to find when coming to this huge jungle island. The mainstay of the city's economy comes from oil refineries. And Indonesia's Pertamina oil refinery complex's presence is easily seen when you stand near the waterfront of the city. The ocean water is a very sick shade of mustard. I can understand how lakes or rivers can quickly change color with industrial pollutants...but this was the open ocean! Yikes! Swimming was out of the question. But if you have to rely on the city itself for your entertainment, you might not stay too long either. As a major air hub in Borneo, Balikpapan makes a great place to arrive on the island and make plans to head up to Samarinda, down to Banjarmasin, or somewhere upriver.
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Samarinda, East Kalimantan, Indonesia
August, 2005
Samarinda is not a popular place for tourists. Nor is it considered as being significant in the Indonesian psyche. However, this city is quite large and populated. It is the capital of East Kalimantan Province on Borneo. And it is a huge cash cow for Indonesia due to its timber industry. I took a 2-hour bus ride between Balikpapan and Samarinda, and upon arrival, I knew that the difference between the cities was night and day. Whereas Balikpapan was tidy and business-centric, Samarinda had parts of its central area that had dirt roads (which was quite muddy, actually). The Mahakam River, which runs through the city, is the busiest river in Borneo with all of the boat traffic from logging operations upriver and from residents coming in to town. However, Samarinda is not a poor city. The bridge crossing the river is incredibly tall. And I recall being in awe at the size of the city's mosque, to which I was told was going to look small compared to the newer mosque being built. It was huge! And even shopping in town, while walking along the muddy roads past local industry, I noticed a modern, multi-story shopping plaza with KFC and all. I didn't expect it from a city that could easily pass as a riverside market town in the jungle. One claim to fame Samarinda has, however, is their batik cloth-making industries. Check it out.
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Jambi Town, Jambi, Indonesia
August, 2005
I have an affinity for Sumatra, but I never really knew much about Jambi other than its significance during the Sriwijaya period of the region's Buddhist history. And even that was while it was in decline. As far as Indonesia is concerned, Jambi is a backwoods provincial capital (of the same name) that is simply a geographic place holder between the lucrative natural gas and timber industries in Riau to the north and the industrializes South Sumatra Province to its south. As such, I didn't plan to spend much time here, but I did want to stop to settle my curiosity. I was glad I did, even if there is little to nothing here for tourists. Still, the town flourishes despite its isolated location. It was very populated, plenty of commercial activity too. You could even say that Jambi was bustling. There are a handful of historical sites in the province, but none near the city. From the airport, a taxi driver explained to me what some tourists in the past had found interesting here, but still professed amazement that any foreigner would want to come here.
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Pekanbaru, Riau, Indonesia
August, 2005
Pekanbaru is much more significant a city in Sumatra than Jambi due to its timber and natural gas industries. In fact, the province of Riau is quite wealthy. However, most of that wealth does not stay in the province. On the bus ride I took from Jambi to Pekanbaru (a painfully memorable experience that I would not voluntarily repeat too easily), I saw little by means of development. In fact, there were huge sections of this major road that were not even paved. Unfortunately, that meant that they were fields of mud. Several vehicles (trucks, buses, and cars) were stuck in the mud and looked like they had been there for a while. And this is usually the area that the huge forest fires start that end up blanketing Sumatra, Malaysia, and Singapore in black haze. When I made it to Pekanbaru, I was relieved to find a city. However, after some thorough exploration, I realized that there was little to be excited about. The shopping in town was limited. The market was nothing too unique. I was amazed to find out how many airlines (Indonesian and regional) were flying into Pekanbaru or planning to. But this will no doubt have a positive impact on the tourism and development of the city. So let's wait and see.
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Dumai, Riau, Indonesia
August, 2005
I am all for trying something new, and one of my favorite things to do is go from point A to point B a different way than I previously have. Going between Indonesia and Malaysia is usually a very straightforward experience: Jakarta to Kuala Lumpur. Sure, there are actually a lot of flights between different cities in each country, but I decided to try something different altogether. From Pekanbaru, I took yet another bus up to the coastal gas town of Dumai on the Strait of Malacca. From here, I was able to get a high-speed ferry over to Malacca town. The cost was cheaper than the airfare and didn't take too much longer if you factor in the waiting times at airports. And the trip was just fine. I was the only person on the ferry who was not an Indonesian national going to work at a factory in Malaysia, but other than that oddity, no issues. The town of Dumai itself is obviously useful for the government for its industry and has a small amount of commerce too. But I found nothing of interest around town, as expected.
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Gombak, Selangor, Malaysia
October, 2005
Gombak has some good food at the restaurants and gerai in the area. I've tried a few different places so far, but there always seems to be yet another one that I haven't tried yet absed on suggestions from friends. Chinese, Thai, Malay, Indian...all delicious. One place in particular sells one-person jugs of fruit juices for RM5. So much sugar, but oh so refreshing with spicy food. From most parts of the town, there's a nice view of the Genting Highlands at night...the lights from up the mountain twinkle in the distance if it is not too cloudy. KLites will tell you that Gombak is colder than KL. But if you are still sweating in 'cooler' Gombak, I'm not sure that's the best way to describe the temperature difference (if any). The drive between Gombak and the Genting Highlands is also nice.
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Kuala Pilah, Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia
November, 2005
My first trip to Kuala Pilah, the largest town in the northern part of the Malaysian state of Negeri Sembilan, was for the Aid al Fitri celebrations. I followed my "local family" back to their hometown and stayed for a few days. I've been a few times since then and don't mind the lack of luxuries. Showering is done outside underneath a pipe. And just to get to the house itself, you have to walk five minutes through the jungle and mud. Leeches are the norm on this short walk. The town itself is not very big, but it is big enough to meet the region's needs. The market here is fairly decent for buying your food needs and some old buildings in town are good for a photo or two.
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Segamat, WP, Malaysia
November, 2005
There is nothing out this way really...but we were in search of a specific restaurant that, despite having a branch in KL near the Ampang Point shopping centre, was worth the trip. OK...the food was nice, but the mosquitoes here were ferocious, and I seldom get bit. I mean REALLY bad. I spent more time itching and scratching than I did eating. And foolish me, I was the only one in my group wearing shorts that night. Segamat itself is still developing. The population and commercial projects increase each year, but it still has a rural feel to it.
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Semenyih, Selangor, Malaysia
November, 2005
I went to Hulu Langat to check out the Sungai Congkak waterfalls. (Hmm...not sure about spelling). It was a nice place but very crowded on the Sunday afternoon that we went. I wanted to throw the frisbee around but there was not much room for that. Also not a lot of flat ground. So we just climbed up the steep and slippery stairs next to the falls and found a pagoda to rest under and just take in the scenery. It is good for picnic lunches alongside the waterfall section of the river. The town of Semenyih itself is growing quickly. It is still rural in feel, but traffic jams and large numbers of international students there give it a unique angle.
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Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu, Malaysia
December, 2005
The Monsoon Cup was fairly uneventful and there was practically no information about the events that were supposed to happen around the race. I'm convinced that little of what was planned actually happened. Haha! Although, there was a small market set up near the strait between the town and Pulau Duyung (Mermaid Island) that had some nice local delicacies and desserts. There is also a restaurant there that has a huge pier into the waters that is nice for relaxing over a cup of tea. Otherwise, the town itself is devoid of entertainment, but that was being rectified when I was there with the construction of a mall and...........wait for it.............the town's first McDonalds!
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Morib, Selangor, Malaysia
December, 2005
I went here with a group of friends as a bit of a joke actually. It turns out that one of my friends' kampong is near here, and with nothing to do on a Saturday night with two cars full of bored guys, we drove out to the coast. We ultimately ended up singing open mic karaoke in an open-air pavilion on the beach with hawker stalls on the side. It is right on the Strait of Malacca, but you couldn't even see it since it was so dark here at night! What you could see, however, were the lights on the small boats out there as the fishermen collected the shellfish. Good place to watch stars too, I guess!
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Bukit Merah, Perak, Malaysia
December, 2005
Bukit Merah is a nice rounded park resort. It is worth a few days stay here. Although, I think it would have been more interesting to go with a larger group than just as a couple. The trip out to the island to see the orangutans is worth it (there are a couple of other boat tours you can take...like the sunset boat ride). Taking a walk around the Bird Park is al enjoyable. Nighttime fun can be had by the bar near the lake. There was a pinay singer performing Indonesian and Filipino songs that night...very interesting. The water park is decent...quite impressive, I'd say, for a regional area. But the monorail, er...if you're up for a good workout, then give it a try. It is self powered!
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Taiping, Perak, Malaysia
December, 2005
Ya...there is nothing special here...typical Malaysian rural city. Run down but enough activity to keep the place livable. With that said, there are a number of things that certain people may particularly enjoy here. Taiping has a long (as far as Malaya is concerned) colonial history and a number of impressive buildings to prove it. As the former capital of Perak, a cash cow state for its tin mining activity, it had a lot of infrastructure built in a long time ago, making it look better than I think it otherwise would at its current status as a regional city. The Taiping Lake Gardens are very pretty, while the zoo and night safari less so.
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Kelang, Selangor, Malaysia
December, 2005
I headed out of KL on the KTM train and took a spin around Klang. Why? Just to get out of the city and see something new. Was it worth it? Maybe. Not sure yet! It reminds me a lot of Indonesia in many ways. And indeed, there are a number of Indonesians living there (legally and not). But it is a major population center for Selangor, so I figured it was bound to have something of interest. There are some malls and plazas which are a bit run down but not bad overall for being at the absolute end of the KL sprawl. Oh ya...I got stuck doing karaoke while I was here. (I know I like it). There was also this one good food stall area, near the KFC in town. I remember it had yellow tents. It was just plain Malay food, but was tastier than usual.
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Shah Alam, Selangor, Malaysia
December, 2005
Again, I headed out of KL on the KTM train. Shah Alam's train station is not too close to all that much (why?). It's a residential area. I felt a bit stranded since all the taxis that were waiting there took other people who had got out first. I had to figure out how to find something interesting without doing any pre-trip planning too! I ended up waking around the city center and made a stop at the local Tesco (this was in the days before a Tesco opened up in KL--give me a break!). The state mosque was a nice photo-op though.
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Candikuning, Bali, Indonesia
January, 2006
In the geographic center of Hindu Bali, this area is mostly Muslim...and is quite cool throughout the day compared to the coastal areas where most tourist spend 100% of their time. It really does make for a striking contrast to the Bali most people know. And indeed, there are no bikini clad, red-skinned tourists that I noticed in several trips up here. There is the lovely and large Bali Botanical Gardens nearby, and the Hindu temple on the lake is classic. It's all the more diverse with a large, silver-roofed mosque sitting on the hill behind it. The market here is pretty interesting, and although it has enough tourist wares, there are sections that cater to the local population, giving some variety to what is being sold. Try some mangostein (manggis) while you are here. This fruit is lovely and higher in vitamin C than an orange.
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Batam, Kepulauan Riau, Indonesia
January, 2006
I really can't comment all that much about this island as I went straight from Batam's airport to the ferry terminal to catch my ferry to Tanjung Pinang on neighboring Bintan island. Batam was merely a transit place for me. It's a shame, because I later found out that I have a friend who lives and works here now. As far as the transit went, there were no hassles and everything was all straightforward. The airport is small but nice. But there is nothing else here aside from the small port that I could elaborate on. From what I know, it's very artificial, but provides a nice place for Singaporean tourists to get out of town and enjoy their strong dollar against the rupiah.
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Tanjung Pinang, Kepulauan Riau, Indonesia
January, 2006
I feel like I was just in and out of here as well, actually. I stayed from Sunday afternoon until Monday afternoon, when I caught another ferry to Singapore. But I noticed that the city seemed to come alive from its Sunday slumber on Monday. Otherwise, it was dead. I did get to hear a great local band though. Supposedly the resorts on the outskirts of Tanjung Pinang are quite nice, popular with Singaporeans, but I never got out there. It's good for playing golf and mingling with prostitutes, so I was told by a Singaporean taxi driver. The town had a port town feel to it and was quite run down, but I didn't get out to the newer part of town, a few km away from the old town center.
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Quezon City, Philippines
January, 2006
Just off the LRT train, I wandered around Quezon City for part of a day but can honestly say that I was a bit disappointed with not finding anything all that exciting to do or see here. As the old capital of the Philippines, I expected to see some grand government buildings. Yeah, the memorial circle has a tower of sorts, but not too much else in my wanderings. I wonder if a car would have been more productive. Hmm. Still, everyone was very friendly that I met. I even had an unhealthy lunch at Jollibee, the Philippines' answer to McDonalds.
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Manila, Philippines
January, 2006
Ya, the girlie mags for sale alongside the road and in the malls were an eye-opening reminder that I wasn't in Muslim Southeast Asia anymore. I was in the Makati area most of the time and enjoyed the sights and the different feel the Manila brings with it, despite its pollution and huge population. My hotel on P. Burgos St. was the noisiest I'd ever stayed at in my life and quite a few prostitutes down on that road, but otherwise, I enjoyed Manila and look forward to checking out other parts of the city another time. There are a number of malls that I popped into, one of which was quite huge, and notably new. Some cafes inside even had clear-walled smoking rooms, making the smokers inside look like they were in a fish tank!
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Angeles City, Philippines
January, 2006
Well, Angeles City is certainly prostitute heaven for some, I guess. The city is quite run down and just overall unattractive. I flew into the airport here with Tiger Airways from Singapore (Air Asia also flies here). Fortunately, everyone else in the plane was in the same ordeal that I was in...we needed to get to Manila. They airport buses give you the option of dropping you off at one of 2 malls or at Manila's airport. I had no idea which one would be closer to my hotel, so I guessed...still not sure if I made the correct choice or not. But other than the buses and some expensive taxi rides, it's a bit difficult to get to Manila from here. The city itself used to house a U.S. military air base which has since closed down (hence Manila's new budget airport). And it is obvious that the town's main (if not only) economic source just fell out of existence. Those poor ladies of the night...
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Macau, SAR, China
January, 2006
I enjoyed the "slight" nuances of colonial Portuguese culture found here. You can walk around the whole main island without too much effort. (Ya, I like to walk...but it was quite small). I enjoyed the "not crowded" feel it had at the night time market and shopping areas...not crowded for China, that is. This city is the ugly cousin of Hong Kong, for sure, but it definitely is trying to make a mark for itself. I'd check back here in a few years to see how it has progressed. There are a ton of big buck casinos planning to move in here. And based on the amount of domestic tourism here already, the arrival of even more casinos is going to be a huge boon for Macau. Hopefully, it does not come at the expense of what little Portuguese history remains here.
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Pattaya, Thailand
January, 2006
Pattaya was certainly more than I had expected. This place is quite lively and very tourist friendly. In fact, the entire coastal section of the town seems as if it were built for tourism. Just a 2-hour bus trip (110 baht) from Bangkok, it's easily accessible. And if you're looking for sex...well, no fetish is discriminated against here (so it seems). And there are a ton of bars, many of which you can see straight into from the outside, with their dancers on the stage or bar. There is even a gay bar in the Boystown section (ok, they are all gay bars in that area) that has an underwater show! But I've seen some families in Pattaya as well...so the city is not just 1 big whore house. The bay view is really picturesque, but I'm not so sure I'd get in the water at this location with the talk of high pollution levels. From the south side of the bay, you can wind your way up the cliff and get even better views of the town.
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Siem Reap, Cambodia
January, 2006
Siem Reap is definitely a town developing for the sake of tourism. And with Angkor Wat and the other temples just a stone's throw away, it's in a good position. There is lots of variety in the bars, pubs, and restaurants. I even found wi-fi and an ANZ ATM machine (despite the travel books saying none exist anywhere in the country). Everything costs US$1...so you know you're being overcharged if something suddenly costs $2. Haha! The dusty streets give the town some real character and the kids selling postcards on the street, despite the obvious exploitation by Thai businesses and individuals (from what they told me), have a pretty good understanding of basic tourist English. Have a chat with one and if you want to give them money, do so without taking their postcards so they can keep the money for themselves instead of giving back to their boss.
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Phnom Penh, Cambodia
January, 2006
I really liked PP. The architecture was nice, the city was clean compared to its regional neighbors, and the people were not fussy at all about Westerners walking around town. The Mekong waterfront...after a bit more development...will be just lovely. But the classic French cafes that are already there add a nice touch. I got to see elephants walking down the street and even a Frenchman scamming Western tourists out of pity money for having lost his visa (interesting stories to be heard if you chat long enough with restaurant staff). The "Killing Fields" just out of the city, though, were really macabre. If you really put yourself into the time and location, it is very disturbing but very important to see for yourself. The famed Russian market in town is, honestly, one big flea market with little of interest (and I like flea markets).
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Songkhla, Thailand
February, 2006
There are good beaches for relaxing in this quiet town. The wat on the hill in the middle of the city was also a nice place to scope out the town from the top, although don't forget to bring a bottle of water as there wasn't a place open on the hilltop to get one. And the cable car that take you up is very slow moving. It can be tiring making the climb (up or down), but it gives you some time to enjoy the scenery if there are not too many people on the hill. The city is also famous for its mermaid statue that sits along the beach on the north (?) side of the hill. There is currently some religious conflict between the local Muslims and the Thai government in the province, but in my time here, there did not appear to be any tension among the population.
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Hat Yai, Thailand
February, 2006
I found some good food and variety here in Hat Yai. The shopping was not so great, in my opinion. But for whatever reasons, that is always why people (especially Malaysians) seem to come here. Over the years, there have been a number of bombings in and around the city, so do be careful. I felt much more nervous and tense in Hat Yai than I was in neighboring Songkhla. And the mini bus company that we took (quite a large company with several branches and in a prominent location) actually was abetting in people smuggling into Malaysia.
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Kota Bharu, Kelantan, Malaysia
February, 2006
Well, Kota Bharu was a bit conservative (on the surface), but the people that I met were friendly and quite used to travelers despite its distant location from large population centers. KB has a nice airport too...though a bit big for its needs. The border security was a bit over zealous...but rightly so, I guess. For almost the whole journey on the charter bus from Hat Yai down here, a group of South Asians were with us. They exited and boarded a different bus just before the border crossing though...to enter at a more discrete location I'm told. The city itself has a bit of a backpacker scene, which was nice I thought, since there isn't a whole lot of obvious entertainment for non-locals. Do check out the markets though. In general, KB is a good place, though, to get your bearings before moving on into Malaysia's Taman Negara or Redang or the Perhentian Islands.
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Seremban, Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia
March, 2006
Seremban is the state capital of Negeri Sembilan and sits at the end of the KTM commuter train line from KL. I have taken advantage of this a number of times and rode down for the day or half day as it is a little over an hour away. The train station is just across the street from the city's biggest mall. And it even has a Starbucks! So even though Seremban has a bad reputation for being backwoods among KLites, it's better than most state capitals in Malaysia. There is a nice lake and gardens area behind the mall which is a popular hang-out place and pubic concert venue. The downtown shops look old but are fairly diverse.
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Singapore, Singapore
May, 2006
Singapore has a reputation locally that is not on par with its reputation among Westerners and tourists. Many Indonesians and Malaysians (Singapore's immediate neighbors) despise the tiny island state for its perceived arrogance and financial success. From a tourist's perspective, though, Singapore offers a lot that other countries in the region are not able to match. For starters, it is clean. That doesn't mean that it is spotless, but it is significantly and obviously cleaner than its neighbors. Singapore's shopping districts are on par with American or European shopping, and its river, while not drinkable by any means, is not brown or green with factory pollutants. Singapore's tiny size has made them more innovative when it comes to using space. Their transport network and road system is the best in Asia. And dining experiences here are truly diverse. Night life in Singapore flourishes and the airport is a tourist destination in itself. You should consider yourself fortunate if you have a stopover of any length of time at Singapore's Changi Airport. There are numerous ferries to connect you to Indonesia's Riau Archipelago or to some southern Malaysian islands. And the colonial district in Singapore is almost like a living museum. But it's so small--you almost wish that it would grow to get more out of it.
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Taipei, Taiwan
September, 2006
For whatever reason, I always seem to get stuck transiting through Taipei's airport on my trans-Pacific flights. The airport is not bad by any means, but it also does not have enough facilities to entertain someone for fourteen hours, as I have been forced to endure here on one unpleasantly long layover. I don't have the patience to sit or wander aimlessly for so long. So on this trip, I ended up having an overnight layover where the airlines put me up in a resort on the outskirts of Taipei. Hey, I was thrilled. Leaving the airport, I got to see a lot of strip clubs and light industry. I was actually hoping to see Taipei 101 in the distance, but it was a rainy day so no luck. By the time I got to the resort, I was too tired to go out and explore the city. But the rural area we were staying in seemed pleasant enough. The drive back through town to the airport did not reveal anything new that I hadn't seen on the way out the day before. But at least I didn't have to sleep in the airport again.
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Miri, Sarawak, Malaysia
October, 2006
This city reminds me more of Singapore than it does of Kuala Lumpur. The streets are lined with trees and flowers. The city center is clean. And it is a good base for inland travels or to the neighboring parks and caves, like Niah or Mulu. I never made it to either of them the 2 or 3 times I've been to Miri because I just get caught up in the city. So far I haven't tired of it. But I don't know why. The shopping is not very big and the entertainment is limited (although it is like Christmas morning for neighboring Bruneians), but I still feel attracted to Miri.
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Bintulu, Sarawak, Malaysia
October, 2006
I stopped here simply as a way to break up the bus trip from Miri to Sibu. It was worth it for the stop...but I wouldn't stay here any longer than 1 night. I walked around the Ramadan bazaar near the river and around the downtown area and the developed area near the long-distance bus terminal. I had lunch at an outdoor plaza along the filthy, but wide, river that goes through the town. There was nothing exciting though. One thing to note, however, is DO NOT take Biaramas bus company. They cancel more busses than they actually have running it seems. They cancelled my bus all along the north coast of Sarawak...telling me each time that I could use the ticket from my next stop but never refunding my money. When I got to the end of my trip...ticket still in hand, I couldn't help but feel bitter. So...fair warning, use another bus company...all the others seemed to run their routes regularly without any drama.
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Sibu, Sarawak, Malaysia
October, 2006
I didn't find Sibu to be too terribly exciting, but it was one of the larger towns in Malaysian Borneo. The Chinese influence in this town is massive, but Malays, Indians, and indigenous groups were also visually represented on the streets. The large and well-kept markets here look impressive from a distance but really lacked in variety or even local specialties. There are some old Chinese temples and architecture in the town that are worth checking out. And even walking down to the river and watching a bit of the traffic go by is nice.
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Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia
October, 2006
The city of Cats...so the name suggests. OK, well, most linguists believe that the name has Chinese origins and not the Malay word for cat, but the city planners didn't pay any attention to that when they were dotting the city with cat statues. Kuching is a gem for all things urban on this massive island. The riverfront area is nice, but not as active as I had hoped. You can take small tampang boats across the river to check out different historical sites, like the Raja Putih's Astana. I was here for the moon cake festival...so going through Chinatown at night was a good use of time. There is some decent shopping to be had here. The city also attracts some strange backpackers though.
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Kampong Bako, Sarawak, Malaysia
October, 2006
This was the ferry port to get to the Bako National Park. It is recommended for the experience. We got to see macaques, flying squirrels, bearded pigs, and proboscis monkeys walking the trails...and probably missed hundreds of other animals along the way. I would like to spend the night at the park in one of the cabins next time in order to make full use of my time there since transport back to Kuching stops at 5pm. Quite limiting. The actual hiking here can be hard on the novice. And this being Borneo, there are a range of flying pests that don't make jungle trekking any easier. Come, but come prepared!
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Genting Highlands, Pahang, Malaysia
November, 2006
Genting...there were so many people there when I went, though it was a holiday period. Prices are high and the hotel rooms are the size of prison cells at First World Hotel. But the views out of the windows from up there are pretty impressive...like you could step out of the window and just walk on the clouds beneath you. It was a fun place to be if you enjoy large numbers of people. The indoor theme park is a little dry and overpriced, but is a good save if it is raining. The outdoor theme park is better but quite old and outdated. A number of international acts come here to perform shows and concerts (I saw Boys2Men...don't laugh...they are still good). Genting tries to be Las Vegas but fails. But it does offer something unique in itself for Malaysia.
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Puchong, Selangor, Malaysia
November, 2006
This town wasn't much a few years ago but is steadily growing and expanding. Actually, it will probably be as big as Cheras or Ampang in a few years. The houses are fairly nice and new and a large TESCO has also set up here. (I think this is the closest one to central KL...which is, to say, not worth the trip out here just for groceries!). I looked into houses down here as well but could not justify living so far away from the city without having a car of my own. Supposedly there will be an extension of one of the LRT lines to come out to Puchong over the next few years, but I wouldn't hold my breath on that one.
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Kuala Belait, Brunei
December, 2006
Kuala Belait is Brunei's second biggest city...er, well, town, and is built around where the Belait River empties into the South China Sea. Why did I come here? Transit. I took a bus from the Sarawakian city of Miri to Bandar Seri Begawan and Kuala Belait is half way between the two. The highway is continuous between the cities but only crosses the river well south of the city center. So our bus stopped at the rover, unloaded everyone (and their luggage), made us cross the river on a small ferry, then board another bus waiting on the other side of the river...all to avoid a $3 toll. Ha! The town has grown quite a bit in the last decade...partially thanks to Shell having its Brunei base there. That said, there isn't anything particularly of interest for the average tourist here.
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Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei
December, 2006
It was just as I expected: quiet at night with little for tourists or locals to do. But the streets were clean, the gardens well-manicured, and there was some nice architecture on several of the buildings. What I didn't expect were the thousands of luxury mansions all over the country (and right on the 'highway'). I did get propositioned by a prostitute in the town center...I did expect that one though...even in Brunei! No McDonalds that I saw...but several KFCs and Pizza Huts as well as some other franchises from Singapore, the Philippines, and UK (and others, I'm sure). Public transport drivers were mostly Filipino and Indonesian language is a strong influence on Bruneian Malay...at least from what I heard in BSB...but you could say so for most cities and towns in Borneo. The museums are large and are full of some interesting objects. And the mosques are impressive, if not a bit over the top. I am happy that I came here...and don't dislike it at all...but I also don't have a need to go back. Satisfied.
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Labuan, WP, Malaysia
December, 2006
You know, I was actually impressed immediately from pulling up in the ferry from Brunei...the terminal is night and day in comparison to what I left behind in the "Abode of Peace." After leaving the modern terminal, I walked out onto a tree- and flower-lined street. The shophouses are nice-looking and even the small streets have a nature-like feel to them with smaller trees. The shopping here (one of Labuan's drawcards) doesn't appear to be impressive at all, but I love the environment here. It's even pretty! There are some grungier elements of town, most likely catering to Bruneians looking for a little fun. And, mostly uncharacteristic of Borneo, there are some modern skyscrapers here, although that is 100% due to the offshore banking done here and not because Labuan would be a well-developed island without it.
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Udon Thani, Thailand
February, 2007
Udon Thani is a busy border town in Northeastern Thailand just an hour's drive south of the Mekong River and across the Friendship Bridge from Vientiane, Laos. It's a good place to transit to get cheap flights if you want to go to Laos from Thailand (flight costs are thousands of baht cheaper from BKK to Udon Thani than they are to fly straight to Vientiane--plus you get the benefit of seeing the town and blindly attempting to make the land border crossing--always interesting). It's a large town for the region but there's nothing great to do or see in the city itself (aside from maybe a large field and plaza with some temples around it--the night I walked by it they were having a movie-in-the-park night). Again, great for transiting.
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Vientiane, Laos
February, 2007
Vientiane is a busy town in the style of urban Cambodia and rural Thailand. The city reminds me of Phnom Penh in a lot of ways, but is lacking an equivalently tragic history as a reason for lack of development. The city has nice but poorly maintained monuments and temples and the Mekong River, which marks the border between Vientiane and Thailand, is not utilized at all for commerce or tourism. Vientiane has a lot of hidden charms...but you've got to find them first. Start with the mix of architectural styles. And one travel tip. If you are ever wondering what to drink, the thousands of ads plastered everywhere for Lao Beer should give you a hint that this stuff is a really big deal for the country. It does provide a good chunk of money for the government. But actually, it is the best beer I have ever had. Tasty.
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Incheon, South Korea
February, 2007
Well, I didn't get out of the airport, but spent a lot of time there. It's not so bad...there are plenty of facilities reserved for transit passengers, including free internet, food areas, and a typical airport transit hotel. The food choices in the airport are...well, not to my liking so much...and the 8,000 won food voucher my airlines gave me was not enough to buy...anything! Oh well. I tried to find something to my liking but ended up picking out this nasty tasting porridge that I couldn't even finish. Afterwards, with 8 more hours until my flight left, I caved in and booked a few hours at the transit hotel.
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Onggokanbatue, Bali, Indonesia
April, 2007
Ulu Watu temple is similar in many regards to Tanah Lot in that it is right at the edge of a cliff overlooking breathtaking views of the coast far below. Here, however, there are aggressive monkeys who like to play around with tourists' eyeglasses, cameras, or just about anything they feel like. The temple itself is standard-looking compared to many Balinese temples, but this place comes complete with a kecak dance performance (the full fire drama version) in a wooden amphitheater that overlooks the sunset from atop the cliffs.
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Tampaksiring, Bali, Indonesia
April, 2007
The temple here is considered to be among the holiest in Bali (although, don't they all bill themselves in that way?) as it is where the holy water used in island-wide temple ceremonies comes from...exclusively (as our guide told us quite defensively). The natural spring bubbling up from inside the temple gates is popular with local bathers looking for relief in their lives, among other things. Some interesting photos are to be had here if you don't feel uncomfortable taking pictures of half-naked people at a holy site. A former presidential palace also sits atop the hill overlooking the temple and surrounding land.
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Lebih, Bali, Indonesia
April, 2007
Lebih is a close-enough place to go to if you are in the Kuta or Ubud areas and want to see an authentic black sand beach. There are traditional fishing boats at the top of the beach to see here as well. Though, they are just as picturesque when they are in the water or in transition between the water and the land. I went shortly after the tsunami in Melanesia and coincidence or not, a wave at nearly the same time destroyed some of the restaurants on the water's edge and a large chunk of the beach was eroded. But the Balinese will rebuild, I'm sure.
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Batu Feringghi, Penang, Malaysia
May, 2007
Batu Feringghi has certainly seen better days. It was (and still kind of is) a popular spot to hang out for foreigners and locals alike, but after the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, the beaches are mostly eroded...leaving little room for a picnic, sunbathing, or beach sports. The Strait of Malacca is never "pleasant" to swim in, but the views are still nice. Hopefully the government tries to do something to restore the beach to what it was previously. I wouldn't mind getting to see it at its peak...or at least with tourists there other than myself!
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Kelawai, Penang, Malaysia
May, 2007
Persiaran Gurney is "the" hot place to be in Penang's Georgetown these days. It has nice new malls, each containing 5-6 different coffee shops, and creates a busy hang out spot for a relatively young crowd. The views of the north shore waters and down the coast are nice from here as well, even if the beaches are hidden under the large rocks put there to slow down erosion of the developed land.
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Ipoh, Perak, Malaysia
May, 2007
Ipoh is one of Malaysia's largest cities and has a very large Chinese population. I knew the area had a long colonial history, but I was still a bit surprised to see that there were many colonial era buildings lining the streets. I also noticed that the city has quite a lot of wealthy residents. I think this must serve as a hot retirement spot, being close enough to KL with better land value and with the luxuries of still being in a city. However, there are not a whole lot of entertainment venues for a city of its size. It is nice to visit for a short period of time, but I wouldn't want to live there!
Edit (4 March 2011):
Again, my time in Ipoh was fairly short, but at least I got to see different sections of the city. I am still impressed with Ipoh's colonial-era heritage buildings...they seem to be in better shape the ones in Penang. The train station, city hall, courts, and even some of the convent schools have very impressive architecture. Plus, I got to see the busy, 'happening' strip of eateries, shops, and bars just off the highway. The bright lights let you know that this is the place to be in Ipoh. At night, though, the town is pretty quiet. Mamak restaurants are pretty scarce in the city center but there are several areas for hanging out in the New Town section, as well as some night markets. The food, in general, is cheap and delicious...though I will have to eat and enjoy MANY more meals here to confirm this.
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Langkawi, Kedah, Malaysia
May, 2007
Langkawi is a very beautiful island and is quite easy to get around on a bike or car (as in, it is not suicidal for foreigners to rent a car and drive here unlike on the mainlaind!). Wherever you look, up the mountain or across the seas, it's just a pretty place with photo-friendly scenery. However...there are a lot of closed-down shops in general. Business post-tsunami must be down considerably. Even many mini-marts don't open until the evening. Do mini-marts really not get any sales in the day? I sure was looking for an open one to buy a bottle of water! Prices are significantly higher here than on the mainland as well...or even Penang! But it is worth it to lounge on the clean beach (the further south you go, the nicer and cleaner it gets) and watch the sizeable waves roll in.
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Kuala Perlis, Perlis, Malaysia
May, 2007
This tiny town in Malaysia's tiniest state is a sea gateway to Langkawi Island. However, it seems a bit redundant since Thais can get there from Satun just to the north and Malaysians from Kedah just to the south. Why would anyone intentionally bypass the closest port to travel out of their way to get a less-frequent ferry from Kuala Perlis? Hmm... Anyhow, due to its lack anything of interest (but obviously hopeful that one day it will have something?), there is plenty of cheap accommodation across from the ferry port. There is even an outdoor food court along the water...if people actually do come and stay here.
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Kangar, Perlis, Malaysia
May, 2007
Well, it is quite small but definitely the largest settlement in Perlis. I even noticed a KFC outlet...but missed the McDonald's...if there even is one. I also didn't spot any malls, though I'm not too surprised about that. The "downtown" area was bustling with people...although I made this observation around lunch time. It satisfied my curiosity to come here once and see with my own eyes...but there is really no need to return. I remember one public notice sign I saw in front of an office building. It told people not to pick the flowers in the decorative flower beds. The only problem was they were basically weeds, not flowers, and looked horrible. Who would want to take those!
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Alor Setar, Kedah, Malaysia
May, 2007
Kedah's capital city is fairly big news as far as northern Malaysian cities go. It's got a bit of a skyline and the Alor Star Tower is something you can't miss, even though it is clear that it was built on the cheap. At the top it provides a great view of the surrounding area and city below...but be careful on windy days...the observation deck is not entirely sealed indoors. The shopping is lackluster and the Star Walk (another KL rip off) is kind of pathetic with used shoes being sold on the sidewalk and food outlets and cafes which resemble the kind of food outlet found in a bus terminal. There are some Thai temples in the town that add a bit of variety to the standard Malaysian city though. Sadly, this was one place in Malaysia where being white will get you stared at.
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Kuala Selangor, Selangor, Malaysia
June, 2007
The town of Kuala Selangor is really unimpressive from a modern/urban perspective...and this is coming from someone who finds enjoyment in even the simplest of things. There are very few colonial leftovers and even less of anything before that period. However, the main attraction, reportedly the largest concentration of fireflies in the world, is definitely worth the visit. You float down the river in the pitch black of the night on a boat that uses a humming battery-operated engine. Yes, both eco-friendly and quiet so as not to spoil the still of the night. As you get close to the mangrove trees along the banks, you see the trees start to light up with millions of fireflies. It is truly like a fairy tale and so very Zen.
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Yangon, Myanmar
July, 2007
I knew that Myanmar got muddy, particularly in the rainy season. But even in the city centre of Yangon, my shoes were caked in it. Old colonial buildings are not maintained, even if they are being used (and most were). I imagine if you scraped through a few layers of mud, the city could be charming. The people don't interact much with tourists unless they are trying to sell you something (kyat from the black market, postcard stacks, or tours and transport tickets). The sidewalks (footpaths) are more of a hindrance than an aid to walking, but the driving here doesn't seem to be as crazy as in other Southeast Asian countries. Maybe that's because the public transport buses here are smaller than most other regional cities but try to fit the same amount of people in them. The pagodas, Shwedagon in particular, are breath-taking though. And despite what I've read on the country, I was not ever harassed or forced to pay a bribe by any government official, nor did I experience a power outage (to my knowledge). I did get chased across the street by a soldier because I was not allowed to walk on the same side of the street as government housing. Who knew? First impression of the city--there are a lot of people walking around!
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Chiang Mai, Thailand
July, 2007
Chiang Mai has a certain sort of likeability to it. Then again, I just came from Myanmar, so that might be the reason why! The old, ancient city blends with its modern elements...it works here. The city walls and moat that circle the oldest part of town definitely give it character, and the city gates are good for photo ops, but most of what is found inside the walls is not very interesting. The shopping here is likewise dull and uninteresting compared to other cities of an equal size. It is always refreshing, though, talking to little, old Thai ladies about the latest pirated Western music CD to hit the local markets though.
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Palembang, South Sumatra, Indonesia
April, 2008
Shocking! But don't misread that as being implied for the city itself. It is actually referring to my experience here. You see, I never got to leave the airport upon arrival. Sent back...denied entry...as the visa facilities were unavailable for tourist at that time. My visa-on-arrival was not granted since they were renovating their visa-on-arrival facilities and, for whatever reason, did not allocate a desk anywhere else in the airport for passengers arriving who need those facilities to enter the country. Sigh. It is Indonesia, but I still go back time and time again! But from the air...as always, Sumatra is beautiful.
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Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
April, 2008
Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon, was a bit chaotic. It had aspects of Bangkok, Phnom Penh, and Jakarta all mixed together...but usually not the positive aspects. And the tourist district of Pham Ngu Lao doesn't come across as appealing as other cities' tourist areas though. The city center doesn't offer too much for travelers either. It does have several malls, but I didn't find the shopping to be 'fabulous' as most sources suggest. Silk is highly touted here...and it looks nice...it's just not my thing though. There is a recreation of France's Notre Dame near the old city center. And another French-inspired district, with cafes circling a traffic roundabout, was charming in a dreary sort of way.
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Cu Chi, Vietnam
April, 2008
The Viet Cong tunnels at Cu Chi are an absolute must see on any visit to southern Vietnam. After a bus ride of a few hours from Saigon, guests tour the area on foot. With much of the original jungle still in place, the site attempts to recreate the conditions of life underground as experienced by the Viet Cong during the war. If you fit, you are welcome to try out the actual tunnels. Another highlight of the tour is the tourist tunnel, which has been widened and cleaned from any rats, bug, or other creepy-crawlies. I managed to make it the furthest of anyone in our tour group of 25 people. I almost made it to the actual end of the tunnel. But it is definitely a scary experience doing this in the pitch dark. If tunnels aren't your thing, you can shoot automatic weapons for $1 per bullet. (I passed on that).
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Tay Ninh, Vietnam
April, 2008
This is unquestionably an interesting town, being the birthplace of the modern Cao Dai religion and owned by the temple itself. The religious organization seems to own quite a bit of land...although some of it was "borrowed" by the communist government after the country was unified. Nevertheless, the grounds are well-manicured, and come prayer time, the adherents seem to come out of nowhere to worship the giant eye in the center of the temple. The inside of the temple is very colorful and was not like any other religious place of worship that I have ever seen.
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Haiphong, Vietnam
April, 2008
I wasn't long here, as I primarily used Haiphong as a transit place on a great airfare deal I got from Saigon on my way to Halong Bay. From what I saw, Haiphong is a nicer place to live than either Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. The wealth is more obvious in the housing construction here, the plazas going up, and the cleanliness of the city in general. It seemed well-organized and designed also (surely a result of being destroyed and rebuilt during the war). The airport is a bit simple though, and we had to rely on an unmetered taxi to get to the bus depot in town.
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Cot La, Vietnam
May, 2008
Despite being lauded as a tourist haven, this seaside resort town is kind of boring actually. But it is an easy place to organize tours to see beautiful Halong Bay. It is best to stay in the middle of the Bai Chay section of the city. If your hotel is on the edge, like mine was...or across the pass in Hon Gai, you'll be too far away to enjoy any convenience of being in the city. Day and night, the markets and restaurants sell basically the same thing, but it is still worth a browse. I ended up booking my bay cruise from a fairly expensive cruise ticket shop, but it was better than being knowingly ripped off by your own hotel! Plus, we were able to get the last two tickets for the trip and were driven across town, straight to the boat.
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Hanoi, Vietnam
May, 2008
I thought that Hanoi was a more interesting city than Saigon. It was noticeably cleaner, more organized, and had clearer areas of interest for tourists. The water puppet show was my favorite part of this entire Vietnam trip. The coordination and choreography was very impressive. But relaxing at Hoan Kiem Lake was pretty nice too. I just sat back and watched as vendors approached with their wares, beggars came by as well, and joggers circled the lake several times. The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and museum complexes are worth a visit too. Wandering around the narrow downtown lanes can bring up some treasures...if you don't get lost.
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Sandakan, Malaysia
May, 2008
I had higher hopes for Sandakan. It has a compact city center that is quite run-down and drastically needs an update into the twenty-first century. Even the new developments along the waterfront are not that impressive...but at least it is progress. The city itself sprawls, but there is not much anywhere in that sprawl of interest. In the city center, the stores and restaurants close just after sunset...some close earlier than that...and it turns into a ghost town with an unsafe atmosphere. It is, however, a good base to see the Kinabatangan River, Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center, and the Turtle Island...although they are quite touristy. If you happen down the right streets, though, you can find a bit of colonial charm still.
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Cherating, Pahang, Malaysia
June, 2008
Cherating reminded me of Lombok, Indonesia, actually. It had the makings of a fun, beachy, tourist-catered getaway...but didn't seem to quite fly. Lots of shops and restaurants were closed. The turtle sanctuary, which might have been nice, sadly didn't have any turtles arrive that night (not their fault). The only 'happening' hang out place at night that was open was full of local bikers...and probably 50 more people inside than were probably safe (if there is a fire marshal that gives these quotas here). The beach is fairly nice, though I would disagree with accounts that call it one of the nicest in the world. The Duyung Restaurant had good food and a great location...even nicer if it is before sunset.
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Kuantan, Pahang, Malaysia
June, 2008
Pahang's capital, Kuantan, is just about how I expected it to be. It is in a rural-dominant state but has 'some' of the luxuries of a big urban city. There are lots of places along the Kuantan River to eat and hang out and the Pahang state mosque in the center of the city is very pretty. Kuantan's Megamall is also impressive for a city of this size...and quite clean, unlike other similar-sized cities in this country. The universities here are attempting to attract international students (mainly from Southeast Asia, Africa, and the Middle East), which should slowly build up some cultural diversity in the city.
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Teluk Chempedak, Pahang, Malaysia
June, 2008
As far as Pahang beaches are concerned, I found Teluk Chempedak to be a much nicer place to hang out than Cherating...but there were tons of other people who had the same opinion too. There are a few restaurants on the beach (including a McD's and a KFC), but there were thousands of people just hanging around the parking lot and top of the beach on the weekend that I went. But there is a nice boardwalk around the side of the bay with monkeys playing along the railing and some picturesque rocks scattered along the shore in this area. The sands are fine and not as littered as the beaches on the opposite coast along the Strait of Malacca. Bring your camera.
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Cirebon, West Java, Indonesia
July, 2008
Cirebon is one of those places on the map of Java which looks like it should be significant for being the biggest city in between Jakarta and Semarang. But it is not. Sure, it is a lot nicer than any other town in between the two cities on Java's north coast, but it is yet another example of a city that has passed its prime. Cirebon boasts three sultanates, a number of historic Islamic wali, and is widely considered as a very holy place for Javanese pilgrims. It also has a large shrimping and belacan (a type of chili paste) industry. Ya...shrimp and holy men. But in more recent years it has started to modernize a bit. Shopping malls are filling in, but the slower lifestyle is still common here. It is culturally distinct from its Sundanese and Javanese neighbors, which, for a trained eye or ear, can be fascinating. But for the average tourist, it won't please too many.
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Cipanas, West Java, Indonesia
July, 2008
I drove from Cirebon to get up the hill here for a nice lesehan dinner with a large group of friends. The price was also a bit up there for local standards, but the food was quite tasty. I suppose the restaurant caters to a growing local middle class as this is out of the way for any tour bus coming through...even to Cirebon. The breeze in this higher elevation kept away any potential sweat...in fact, it was bordering on being cold. As a town itself, there is certainly enough to live off of here...but I think it is better served as a place to visit. I'd come back for the food.
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Depok, DKI, Indonesia
July, 2008
Depok has been touted by my Indonesian friends who either studied at the University of Indonesia or who lecture there. Depok exists as a student city whose main industry is the university. As a suburb of Jakarta, I did not have high hopes for it, assuming that it would be like most of Jakarta's other suburbs (chaotic). But Depok is different. It has tree-lined streets, wider roads, and a lot of students. The university campus is nice for Indonesian standards. It is covered with trees and even offers a campus bicycle program so students can use bikes to get around campus easily on dedicated bike trails.
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Cengkareng, DKI, Indonesia
July, 2008
I decided to stay close to the airport as I had an early flight the next morning and didn't want to have to deal with Jakarta traffic the following morning. The area I stayed at, which is only a 5-10 minute drive from the main airport, had plenty of local activity, but there wasn't anything of interest for a tourist. But if your car broke down, the numerous bengkel mechanics in the area would give you plenty of choices. Even the food stalls were few and far between. But there are a few hotels in the area to serve the purpose that I was looking for...quiet, close, and a bit pampered.
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Samut Prakan, Thailand
July, 2008
Staying here, away from Bangkok proper, served the purpose of allowing me to remain close to the airport and avoid the congestion of the capital city. As with every town in Thailand, there were dozens of 7-11 convenience stores around. And no trip to Thailand is complete without stopping in one of these at least once for something frivolous. Other than that, there are several restaurants in the area, though noting that caters to tourists per se. I eventually ended up just eating at the café/restaurant that my hotel had to ensure the menu was in English.
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Bengkulu Town, Bengkulu, Indonesia
November, 2008
Bengkulu is divided from the rest of Sumatra by a high mountain chain that is difficult to traverse. And for most of the region's history, it has been isolated from the surrounding ethnic groups. The British colonized the area and pushed pepper cultivation. But they failed, most dying from malaria and the rest surely from boredom. Today, Bengkulu is not much different, albeit malaria deaths are now less than death from boredom. The capital city (of the same name as the province) is little more than a market town for surrounding villages. The only mall in the province is situated next to a garbage dump and you have to pass wild goats and chickens just to get to the mall entrance. The Chinatown section of town is the most picturesque, but there are some nice shots to be had at the fort overlooking the Indian Ocean.
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Pontianak, West Kalimantan, Indonesia
November, 2008
Despite the city's namesake, I did not see any vampires (or to be more true to local myths, pregnant female vampires). But Pontianak does have another easy claim to fame; it sits on the Equator. They have a monument to mark this feat, and it is apparently a must on any tourist's itinerary to the city. After all, why would a tourist come here if not for that? Well, I gave the monument a miss and explored town instead. I'm not sure if it was worth it. The city is busy and there are some nice commercial development and malls here. Along the river, you can watch as large and small ships come from upriver with their goods or resources. There is also a very big evening food market along the river.
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Banjarmasin, South Kalimantan, Indonesia
November, 2008
I was misled by the literature on Banjarmasin. It paints a picture of the city center being built over top the river on stilts. This is not exactly true. Just the buildings that are along the river have some stilts to keep them from falling into the river. But mostly, they are situated on the ground. And you certainly don't even get a sense that there is a river walking through town unless you cross a bridge. Still, river life is fairly busy and road traffic is dense. There are some malls and several of the local bakeries offered free Wi-Fi, but other than that, there was very little for tourists. It is worth it to find the state mosque here. It looks otherworldly. And there is a cute park just behind the mosque that is decorated with bronze orangutan in funny poses.
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Bandar Lampung, Lampung, Indonesia
November, 2008
Bandar Lampung is at the southern tip of Sumatra and has a very Javanese feel to it. Indeed, Javanese outnumber the locals, and they will tell you this up front when talking about the city. Still, it has a different feel to it than most Sumatran or Javanese cities because of this fusion. The town is fairly developed but is not very popular with tourists. I'm told that Malaysians like to come here, but I didn't notice anything in particular that Malaysians could get in Lampung that they couldn't get back home. The krepek snacks are a local specialty here and are good to munch on. Most people would come to Bandar Lampung simply because they want to check out Krakatau Volcano between Java and Sumatra. But it is a long drive from Bandar Lampung to get to Sumatra's main tourist areas in North and West Sumatra. I would say that unless you have a lot of excess time or a good reason to come here, Lampung should be crossed off your list. But flying over Lampung can be very pretty from the air, looking at the rivers, swamplands, plantations, and jungles.
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Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
December, 2008
Kota Kinabalu, or KK, has been pushed extensively for development by the Malaysian government. The city is not much bigger than Sandakan (the state capital during British colonialism), but the modernization push that has been centered here and largely skipped over in Sandakan has created two strikingly different cities. KK has a very popular coastal market (sometimes called the Filipino market) that sells everything from tourist trinkets to shellfish (which can be specially packaged to allow for domestic air travel). The older part of town is orderly enough as most of this area was rebuilt after the bombings the city endured during World War II. But the newer area, 1 Borneo Hypermall, is supposedly the commercial jewel of Borneo with its luxury hotels, large shopping mall, entertainment facilities, and restaurants. KK also serves as an important air hub for towns upriver. Overall, KK was a nice place to visit and will be an interesting city to watch over the course of its modernization.
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Malacca Town, Malacca, Malaysia
December, 2008
Living in Muslim Malaysia, I am always surprised at the way all the cities and towns decorate for Christmas. In KL the malls go all out, competing with each other for the nicest-looking decorations, tallest Christmas trees in the atriums, and so on. But in Malacca, they go a different direction altogether. Sure, there are some Christmas decorations, but the real focus of Christmas celebrations centers on the city's Portuguese Square (Medan Portugis). During the day, the Square is uneventful and does not resemble Portugal in the least bit. At night, the area turns into a large outdoor food court. Historically, the Portuguese Malaccans lived in this area. And although the faces are quite Asian today, the inhabitants are proud to tell you that they are mixed Portuguese. That doesn't matter throughout most of the year until Christmas Eve, when this Square erupts with Christmas joy in the form of thousands of aerosol fake snow cans. Thousands of revelers, Christians and non-Christians (mostly), gather here for the midnight countdown. There are Christmas light house decoration contests in the neighborhood surrounding the Square and traffic comes to a standstill in the narrow lanes around the area. If you didn't know any better, you would think that this was Armageddon as everyone was so wild. I can't say that this was fun, but it certainly was memorable and energetic, something that most visitors to otherwise stoic and historic Malacca don't get to experience.
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Langkawi, Kedah, Malaysia
September, 2009
This was actually my first time driving in Malaysia. I've driven elsewhere and am comfortable driving on both the elft and right sides of the road, but driving in Malaysia is quite scary because there is no respect for road rules and certainly no "budi bahasa" when it comes to other drivers on the road. Anyhow, I survived in Langkawi's small roads, but still can't bring myself to drive in KL!
As for the freedom of having a car, it was nice to be mobile and not rely on taxis. They do charge high rates so for all we did and saw, having the rental car was definitely worth the cost. From Burau Bay, we were just next to the Oriental Village and cable car. The Village was cute but mostly a ghost town since the cable cars were closed for a 2-week maintainance period. That sucked. The Telaga Tujuh...well, it might be wirth it for some people...but it was a LONG walk to the top...even with the stairs and occasional bench. I will say, though, it was the place where other tourists were mostly likely to speak to each other.
We also checked out Langkawi Craft Complex on the north shore. It was big and probably interesting enough for most people. But a lot of it you can find in tourist shops and even malls in KL. At least here, though, you could watch them making it. The Beras Terbakar...mmm...skip it. There really is nothing to see. Although, the shops around the parking lot out front have a nice selection of minyak gamat...if you know what that is and want to buy it! Probably the most interesting thing I did was go to the Mahsuri museum. It was almost like a cultural village, with several music groups performing and the traditional houses, which you can go inside of.
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Pantai Cenang, Kedah, Malaysia
September, 2009
Pantai Cenang, and to a lesser extent Pantai Tengah (not in the middle, but at the bottom of the west coast beaches), is Langkawi's most tourist-minded strip of beach, with its shops and restaurants, beachside motels, and, well, its tourists. The tourists are a motley bunch, ranging from non-English-speaking Russians to Middle Easterners. I must say, some of the women remain covered in black from head to toe...even when dipping their covered legs in the sea...but other women, I noticed, were getting very creative with 'how' to cover themselves but still look as if they were going to the beach. I thought it rude to take pictures...but I wish I would have! Very clever! On the other end of cleverness, I ran into a small group of most likely mainland Chinese (definitely non-Malaysian) while I was hanging out at a roadside stall selling cendol pulut. They sold snacks and drinks. And in two large, clear tanks, they kept their red syrup and grape drinks. This Chinese group pulled over for drinks...started asking if it was red wine! Note to confused tourists: Muslim roadside vendors selling traditional snacks and RM1 drinks do not also sell alcohol. Hahaha!
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Kuah, Kedah, Malaysia
October, 2009
We saved the last day of our Langkawi trip to drive out to Kuah since our flight back to KL was not until the evening (and then postponed 2 hours later). Kuah gave us an opportunity to get away from the beaches and mountains and into air con shopping plazas. Wel...not really, but that's what we had hoped. Aside from the jetty shops, we found 2: the Langkawi Plaza (which is like an even less interesting Ampang Park) and Langkawi Fair (which claims to be the biggest--and best--on the island, but is severely lacking in anything interesting). On driving around the town center, though, we got sidetracked and ended up on a road out of town. Luckily there was no place to turn around and about 2km down the road, we found a shop full of kitchenware at really good prices...perfect for having just moved back. In Kuah, I most enjoyed driving around. The area around the jetty (Dataran Lang especially) provided some nice pics.
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Shanghai, China
December, 2009
Unlike my transfer in Beijing, I had little conflict doing the same in Shanghai. I found the airport to be much nicer than Beijing's and the overall level of English abilities much better. The airport's architecture is almost artsy...especially the roof in Terminal 1. But it is obvious that the airport was built to suit the city's status as the country's biggest city. The maglev comes to the airport, and there are a number of shops and restaurants to keep people entertained. Although the airport doesn't offer it, some shops provide free Wi-Fi.
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Labuan, WP, Malaysia
January, 2010
Labuan is a forgettable island off the coast of Brunei in north Borneo. While Borneo offers a number of exciting adventure, eco, and even urban-themed trips for the wide-eyed tourist, Labuan is not one of those places. Supposedly the diving is good in the area, but if you saw the shipping traffic (and their pollutants) in the area, you might not want to get wet. The town on the island is actually clean (like many cities on Borneo are...at least compared to the cities on the surrounding islands and the Peninsula) and very pretty with its tropical tree-lined streets. Birds of Paradise flowers, which are usually a garden feature if you have 1 or 2 in Western countries, are chucked down the entire length of the avenues here like you would lay sod. But aside from staring at flowers, there is so little to do here. A new mall (which would be the island's 2nd in total) is in the works near the port, but since the 1st mall is devoid of any character, my hopes are not too high. The recently renovated airport, on the other hand, is quite impressive, and is one of the only places where you can find a Wi-Fi connection available to the public. This may not be important to many travelers, but Labuan is billed as an offshore financial center. People from all over the world do business here, yet a relegated to hang out at the airport McDonalds just to check e-mail or, heaven forbid, stay in contact with the rest of the world. Don't get me wrong...I like Labuan overall. I just need a little bit of time to forget how incredibly boring it is here.
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Phuket, Thailand
June, 2010
Phuket is a place that I was never meant to visit, it seems. I had purchased flight tickets numerous times in the past, and for some reason or the other, always had to cancel the trip. Oddly, it never bothered me that much though. Maybe it was the super cheap airfare deals I usually landed that helped lessen the blow. Anyhow, this time I did make it. But it appeared to be at the wrong time. It rained every day, from the flight into Thailand, to the night before out 5am departure from the hotel.
I didn't get to see Phi Phi, or "James Bond" Island, or sunbathe along the beaches, or scuba off the reefs. No, I didn't get to do any of that. Still, I had a nice time in Phuket. Thai food, as always for me, is filling and satisfying, and I got plenty of it while I was there. But I was surprised to see so many European restaurants there...including a number of Russian businesses. We even stopped at an Israeli café for some falafels while waiting for the rain to subside.
Without its beaches and water activities, Phuket relies heavily on the sex industry and lots of drinking. We weren't into that but spent a lot of time people-watching the people who were watching the people in the bars (or dancing on the bar itself). Bang La Road is the main strip in Patong and has a night market selling souvenirs and snacks. It is also where many of the sex bars are located. The gay area is around the corner at the Royal Paradise Complex, but it was hard to tell with all the lady-boys walking around Bang La at night.
Because of the rain, we hung out in the Jung Ceylon Mall, which is connected to another mall...which appeared to be the best Phuket had to offer. Not bad, I guess. And it kept us dry. The security guards at the mall entrance split their time bagging wet umbrellas and saluting anyone who entered. I would have thought maybe a wai...
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Rawang, Selangor, Malaysia
July, 2010
Rawang appears to be one of those places (to me) that has grown quite big out of necessity but has done so with little to no city planning. The one-way main road through the town center has no lanes, but is wide enough for three, with cars parked on each side. And cars seem to come non-stop. Even construction on the only would-be pedestrian overpass looks to be on hold. The shop houses look old and you can't say that this town buzzes. Indian shops are well represented here and the train station, which used to be the northern end of one of KL's commuter lines, has gotten a makeover (and maybe even expansion). The food stalls near the station (which sits just behind the main road) are a popular hangout place and many people seem to know each other. The stray dogs here looked a little rough though (bloody, with torn ears...sad).
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Tanjong Malim, Perak, Malaysia
July, 2010
Tanjong Malim, at the moment, is the end of KL's Rawang-Seremban commuter line. This will change as the electrification to Ipoh pushes forward...albeit grudgingly slow. The town sits on the edge of a nearly dried up mud river (how the town came to be described as a cape off of such a small stream, I'm not sure), and the rail line cuts the town in half. No really...you have to go out of your way to get from one side to the other as no roads cross the tracks at grade. The town, just across the Perak state border, hosts a teacher's college, which explained the slightly larger population...a decent portion of which was about college age. Usually towns like this (middle of nowhere with not many good job prospects) have difficulty retaining their youth into adulthood. It makes sense that at least some of the college grads would choose to stay though. After all, Tanjong Malim does have a Pizza Hut and KFC. Can't beat that for a rural town with no tourist industry! Still, I was pleasantly surprised how big it was...at least the town center area. Unlike many one-street towns (as this should be), it had rows of shops. There was also a peculiarly large amount of signs written in Malayified Arabic writing (ya...Jawi--not sure how to say it otherwise), including the fire department. There was a nice little tempat lepak with a colorful garden and stuffed animals decorating the walls. I imagine this is the place to go on a Saturday night here. Haha. Still, the food was nice. It didn't have a name, that I recall, but it was on Jln. Hj. Mustafa Raja Kamala if anyone is in Tanjong Malim on a Saturday night and looking for a happening place.
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Sri Menanti, Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia
September, 2010
Sri Menanti serves as the site of the Sultan of the Malaysian state of Negeri Sembilan. The royal palace (Istana Besar) is nice and very typical for the regional architecture. Across the street is a "royal" golf course. The town itself has nothing royal or regal about it though. It is just a small rural town. The mosque, public school, and a small market strip are the most prominent features in town. If you are of Negeri Sembilan descent, coming here might be of interest...but it is a bit out of the way for the casual tourist for what it has to offer. I came here to visit some relatives of my "adoptive" family, who are from this region. I do like the house styles (to look at--not to live in)!
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Banda Aceh, Nanggroe Aceh, Indonesia
October, 2010
I came here because I wanted to see what Aceh was like...particularly to see its progress since the 2004 tsunami. The tsunami is still a common topic for discussion here, but there is some general contentment with the slow progress made in development since then. There have been new developments, but Banda Aceh still looks like other Sumatran cities. As expected, the Baiturrahman Mosque is very central to life in the city center. The teachings are broadcast nightly on the loud speakers, which seem to be louder than the loud speakers used at mosques in Malaysia. Still, the night market that sets up for a kilometer stretch along the road the central mosque sits on was fairly busy, if not highly repetitive. The hawker food stalls interspersed in the market are busy and include favorites such as martabak, curried duck, and Kentucky Fried Chicken (not related to KFC...haha!). The commercial center of town is also fairly busy at night when people come out to eat and hang out, but there is not much great shopping to be had here. People are friendly, and the men in particular are quite touchy-feely. I lost count of the conversations I had just from walking around town (a few even in English). And the people are very proud of the Acehnese language. I was given impromptu Acehnese lessons by every becak driver I rode with. But between its unfamiliarity and my own admitted lack of interest, I have not retained much!
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Muar, Johor, Malaysia
November, 2010
Muar, resting just south of Melaka (Malacca) in northern Johor, is a historical town (small city?) that has been largely forgotten and relegated to the "no reason to go here" category unless it is your home town. You won't pass it on the highways and, most likely, you won't arrive here on the ferry from Duami (in rural Riau, Sumatra). But it's an interesting place to check out...spend a few hours wandering the streets.
Muar dates back to around the same time as Melaka and figures prominently (though not always by name) in the legends associated with Melaka and its Who's Who list of characters. Not surprisingly, large sections of Muar look like Melaka...only not as grand. There is no pink church; there are no "Portuguese-descendent" communities (that I know of); no observation wheels; no sound and light shows (do they even do that anymore in Melaka?); and even though Melaka isn't known for its size, it is much bigger than Muar. Still, Muar has a lot of Melaka's charm. There are a number of old houses and shop lots around the town center. The admin buildings are in classic colonial architecture. And the river is wide...helping to give the town some variation from the small little rivers-cum-creeks-cum-gutters that populate many of Malaysia's other cities.
Its condensed size gives the impression that traffic is hellish. It is challenging to cross the streets in town, but walking down the road is well worth the trouble. There are a number of hawker stalls that set up around town. Muar is, after all, known for its versions of a number of popular dishes. Many of the historical buildings also have their dates of establishment printed right on the wall.
As for its modernity...well, there are more comfortable places to go in Malaysia for that. But still, there are, at my count, at least 3 KFCs in the city center as well as a number of other chains. Malls...eh, again, you'll find better options in other cities. But I did notice some good sales at least. Hehehe! The bus terminal is right along the river in the center of town, making it very easy to get around on foot once you have arrived (RM16 from KL, 2+ hrs). I'm not sure I would come back here in any hurry, but I am glad I went and saw it with my own eyes.
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Lumut, Perak, Malaysia
November, 2010
Lumut, in the tourist literature, has a bit of a bad reputation. It's referred to as a transit spot that you won't want to stay in for any longer than it takes to get the ferry to Pangkor. And I get it. There isn't much of anything special to do and the beaches are nicer on the island. But the town is actually quite busy with locals and tourists alike. The bus station is connected to a food court which serves pretty good local food. Next to that is the town center, which has been revitalized to cater to tourists looking for typical souvenirs from the region (shop around though...I noticed that the prices are not the same at each shop). And across the street is the ferry terminal, which we found to be quick and efficient. There was no place to sit each time boarding the ferry...but enjoying the views from the back of the boat were worth not getting to sit. Don't come to Lumut for the sake of seeing Lumut. But don't hurry through as fast as possible on your way to Pangkor.
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Pangkor, Perak, Malaysia
November, 2010
Pangkor is one of those places that is a good destination to visit if you are in the area, but overall, does not really compare to the better options available in the country. There is a charm to the island though. Non-residents cannot bring their car to the island, so tourists get around on pink minibuses (which are overpriced, but still reasonable). There are several 'hot spots' (Teluk Nipah, Pasir Bogak, Teluk Ketapang) for tourist activity on the island, and a few 'key attractions' (Batu bersurat, Dutch fort, Fu Lin Gong Temple), but it is all very mellow and quiet. That can be a good thing though, if that's what you are looking for. There are fishing villages around the coast for some good photos, and there are also water sports (parasailing, boating, snorkeling) for visitors looking for more excitement. In certain areas, like Teluk Nipah, the night 'comes alive' with the beach shacks filling up for dinner and hanging out. Shops set up alongside these restaurants sell touristy knick knacks. And despite being littered with rubbish like most others in Malaysia, the beaches look nice and are almost picturesque. In general, Pangkor is a nice, quiet getaway.
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Batu Pahat, Johor, Malaysia
January, 2011
Batu Pahat is a not-so-small small city along the Straits of Malacca in the southern state of Johor. It has an interesting and long history. It played a large role in the Siamese assault on Melaka, the formation of the country's ruling party, and has featured prominently in a minister's recent sex tape. I opted to avoid politics and sex tapes on my trip here and just wandered the city, walking aimlessly without a map for hours. As usual, there was no single fantastic attraction to draw people here, but the place as a whole has a lot of character in the style of Muar or Melaka. There are quite a few malls that have sprung up over the last ten years or so...bigger than you would expect for a place of this size. And the nightlife appears decent for its size as well. The main attraction is a statue of a suspended hand chiseling a rock. I know...not too thrilling. And I gave it a miss. But the old style architecture and overall unkempt appearance of the buildings gave it some charm...and not just run-down-dump style. I found the morning market near the river--it was quite lively. And the wet market immediately behind it was as smelly as to be expected. The river itself has not been developed for commercial activity (other than an international ferry port to a few islands off the coast of Sumatra). I think the highlight of my trip was finding a nice, trendy-looking café with cheap prices and a live band playing at around 5-6pm. It was unexpected, but they were quite good. I would go back again...in a few years.
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Taiping, Perak, Malaysia
March, 2011
Taiping has typically been a place (for me) that you drive past on the highway and just use as a marker to see how far you are to/from Ipoh or Penang. I knew it had some interesting sites but just did not have much of a draw to it. Naturally, I am like a moth to a flame when it comes to former-glory off-the-beaten-path destinations. So Taiping was not spared in my travels. You get a hint of the town's beauty from the highway in the region with all of its manicured bushes. After exiting, the sites are not very promising though. If you take a bus, you will get dropped off at Kamunting's bus terminal. Taxis to the town cost about RM12 (on the cheap side, I think) and pass through a military residential zone. When you get to Taiping's jail, you have reached the city. Depending on which road you take, you will pass Taiping's Zoo (the first in Malaysia) with its famous night safari and the turn off road to Bukit Larut (Maxwell Hill) and its cooler hill station weather.
Both roads into the city, however, will take you through the best attraction of the city, the Taman Tasik Taiping (Taiping Lake Gardens). These former tin mines were flooded and, oddly for Malaysia, kept very clean from litter, sewage runoff, and pollutants. The lake is clean-looking and the grounds are beautiful. Large trees from the periphery road stretch across the lanes to reach down toward the lake. Benches line the lakeside and couples (or tired joggers) make good use of them. There are some boat-like things that you can rent and paddle around the lake in. Plus, the monkeys in the trees can make for some nice photos...if they don't take your camera from you, I suppose. I saw them chasing a squirrel (I pretended they were just playing...but I didn't stick around to see what would happen if they caught it).
The town center itself, which sits at the southwest corner of the lake gardens, has an interesting history dating back to the colonial period. And there is an impressive array of buildings to vouch for it. The more modern buildings in town are uninspiring and desperately in need of a paint job (except for the Pizza Hut and KFC). But the older buildings redeem it to a certain extent. The Larut Matang complex in the center of the city is a popular place for eating and hanging out. There are some nice dishes here that are difficult to find in other parts of the country.
A little bit about me
- Kris (aka Dato K)
- Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
- I'm an American political refugee during the Bush years that realized that I liked traveling around the world and not staying put in one country. I've been living KL, Malaysia as my base for several years now...comfy city to live in and a great hopping point for travel in the region.
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